A touch of beauty in a concrete world

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A touch of beauty in a concrete world

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Sandwich By Andrew Salmon

Have you ever asked yourself: “Who makes me angrier than anyone else?” If you haven’t, congratulations. You are a saint.
But I’m not, and this question arises for me several times a day. Near the top of my list most days are real estate developers.
I mean, wander over to the nearest window and take a hard look at Seoul. Here we have some of the finest topography in the region ― forested, granite mountains and the broad Han River valley ― counterbalanced by some of the world’s ugliest architecture.
It is incredibly odd, I must say. Traditional architecture ― stone walls, wood and paper walls, topped off with the gray tiles of curved roofs ― is absolutely charming.
Yet the descendants of the builders of Changdeok Palace and Bulguk Temple seem more enamored of great, square lumps of concrete and glass.
Take the area behind the Sejong Cultural Center in Gwanghwamun. On my very first visit to Seoul in 1989, I stayed in an old inn on a street of traditional houses in this area. Today, that entire street has been vaporized ― gone forever.
In place of those priceless treasures are a group of colossal rectangular officetel complexes: “King’s Garden.” Why King’s Garden? Search me. There are, as far as I know, no royalty in residence, and I don’t see any gardens, either.
But I will give the designers one nod. They have made a slight effort at aesthetics, though you have to step inside to see it.

테스트

salad

In the center of complex number three is a quiet courtyard, featuring a faux-traditional pavilion, stone lions, and a kind of geometric sculpture. And on the corner of the entrance way is a pretty little bistro-cum-cafe: Seesaw.
Large French windows offer views inside. The dominant color scheme is turquoise, set off by pale, ash tables. Potted foliage abounds, and there is a small stand of books and magazines. On the back wall are works of modern art.
And speaking of pretty things, check out the vision of loveliness behind the counter. This willowy, artistic-looking creature is patroness Hong Soo-ah, 36. (The art on the back wall is by her sister Hong Su-yeon.)
Ms. Hong has been running Seesaw for almost three years, and judging by the number of foreign clientele in here, has been doing a good job.
The menu offers sandwiches from 6,500 to 12,000 won.
They range from your commonly encountered BLT to your more exotic blue cheese with apple and walnut. Add 7,000 won and Ms. Hong will throw in a soup or salad (which come in a variety of kinds) and a coffee. There are also various pastas, ranging from 9,000 to 21,000 won.
We start with chili soup (5,200 won). This includes chunks of minced beef, chili beans, chopped carrot and onion, with a dollop of sour cream for good measure.
It is fierce enough to keep the February chills at bay, but mild enough not to blast a hole in your trousers seat. Pretty good, in other words.
Seesaw Salad (8,200 won) is a large platter of greens, tomato, bacon, croutons and a poached egg.
There is a lot of taste and texture going on here ― smoky bacon, fresh leaves, balsamic drizzle, chopped nuts and crisp croutons. This would be a light lunch in and of itself.
Next up is a prosciutto sandwich (7,500 won). This is not ready made but bespoke, served on soft, whole wheat foccacio. It encompasses fresh lettuce, prosciutto ham and grana padano cheese. There is also a thin spread of olive mulch or tapenade for extra flavor. Substantial and delightful.
Finally, porcini mushroom risotto (15,000 won). This is a thick, creamy number, and ― take note competing restaurateurs ― the rice is textured rather than being being soft and sloppy.
The dish is topped with several shavings of parmesan and is probably the best risotto I have ever eaten in Seoul.

This is astonishing because Seesaw is not an Italian restaurant, yet the grub is better here than in some of the ruinously priced dining palaces south of the river. The surprises here come thick and fast. Did Ms. Hong, who male readers will be pleasantly surprised to learn is still single, study her art in one of the world’s finer culinary institutes?
“No, I learned by myself. It was my hobby,” she said.
I am flabbergasted. If ever there was an indictment of formal education, this is it.
You can finish with various teas and coffees. Service is fast (we were there at lunchtime). My only complaint is that all the dishes arrived pretty much at once.
Verdict: Seesaw has pulled off that tricky act of offering food that is simple, but simultaneously sophisticated. As such, it is a great spot for a slightly pricy, but quiet and elegant lunch.
And the setting? Truly there can be beauty in ugliness.

Seesaw
English: spoken
Tel: 736-0177
Address: No. 173, King’s Garden/Gyeonghuigung Achim 3, 72, Naesu Dong, Jongno district, Seoul
Subway: Gyeonghuigung station, exit 7
Hours: Weekdays ― 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Weekends ― 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Dress: Come as you are

테스트

exterior

By Andrew Salmon Contributing Writer [andrewcsalmon@yahoo.co.uk]
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