Saigon Grill rounds out Itaewon’s ‘Hub of Asia’

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Saigon Grill rounds out Itaewon’s ‘Hub of Asia’

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From top: Curry, Vietnamese pork chop, chagio By Andrew Salmon

Local civil servants consumed with the idea of transforming South Korea into “The Hub of Asia” might benefit from visiting the alleyway behind the Hamilton Hotel in Itaewon. While this area has not been created by government decree, it is a real, live, working international axis ― albeit one of wining and dining, rather than of trade, finance or logistics.
And unlike the much-promoted Free Economic Zones, it is filling up. You have here ― in the space of about 30 meters ― Belgian, French, Indonesian, Thai (times two), Chinese, Korean, Greek and Pakistani restaurants, as well as a brace of international pubs, all cheerfully jammed elbow to elbow. Is there space for more?
Perhaps not, given that the latest entrant to this multicultural feeding fest, the Vietnamese-themed Saigon Grill, has had to open up around the corner, in the tiny alley next to the Hamilton Hotel.
It is tucked away in what may well have been someone’s garage. But don’t be put off: That may sound un-appealing, but they have created an ambience that is half French wine cave, half al-fresco.
The restaurant proper is adjacent to this, behind folding, floor to ceiling windows. One wall is bright red, the others are white, contrasting with the black chairs and tables. There are orchid designs on the wall above the small bar. Illumination comes from brass chandeliers. Overall, it is understated but elegant.
The gent behind Saigon Grill is the friendly Phil Kang, formerly co-owner of the gay bar “Why Not?” on “Brokeback Hill,” another Itaewon international hub.
So Phil: why Vietnamese?
“In Itaewon, you have foreign clients, so you can’t do fusion: You have to present something authentic,” he said. “I have a friend, a chef, who studied in Australia, and when we went to his house for parties, he always cooked Vietnamese, and it was excellent.”
The menu, at three pages of fodder, is concise ― although considerably more extensive than the multitude of pho franchises that represent Vietnamese cuisine elsewhere around Seoul. We kick things off with fried fishballs (3,000 won for three pieces) and chagio (spring rolls with minced pork, shrimp and veggies: 5,000 won for four).
The fish balls are deep fried squid on a bed of lettuce with tiny tomatoes, chunks of pineapple and shredded cucumber in a peanut dressing. The chagio are lightly fried rice paper wraps, surrounding the meat, shrimp and shredded vegetables. Both are beautifully presented, but neither offers particularly outstanding flavors. For our main courses, we order pork salad with coriander dressing (14,000 won), yellow curry with shrimp (13, 000 won) and a baguette sandwich (13,000 won). These prove much more memorable.
The pork salad is a huge pile of flora ― lettuce, shredded onion, shredded cabbage and cucumber, tiny tomatoes and pineapple ― and, with the thick strips of pink and black chargrilled pork draped over it, an explosion of color. The coriander dressing is highly apparent once you reach the shredded salad, as is a touch of sesame oil. The meat is terrific.
Equally good is the shrimp curry. This is a grainily textured egg curry, enlivened with bright red and green peppers and a net full of large shrimp. There is no “smell of napalm in the morning” with this, but it does pack a fair kick in the aftertaste. It comes with a mound of white rice.
The baguette ― Vietnam, to its credit, has kept some of the finer influences from its French colonial history ― is a monster. A good 12-incher, this is loaded with salad, grilled beef, and red chilis. The only thing missing is a stronger drizzle of the notorious nuoc nam, or fermented fish sauce, but I concede that is a taste many would not savor.
Given that the grilled pork proved so good, we also order a Vietnamese pork chop (14,000 won). This is yet more of the chargrilled pork on a mound of rice topped with a fried egg, and the by-now familiar side salad of lettuce, shredded cucumber, tomatoes and pineapple under a peanut dressing. Anyone who has eaten in street-side cafes in Southeast Asia will be familiar with this kind of dish. It proves as substantial and tasty as it is colorful.
Our daughter (behaving herself for once) caught the waiter’s eye and was rewarded with a plate of home-made coconut ice cream. With chopped nuts added for texture, this was beyond reproach.
There is a one-page wine list (most bottles are in the 30,000 to 50,000 won range), plus beers and juices. I am surprised that Thai Singha (6,000 won) has such an enthusiastic following beyond its native shores: It is a decent enough lager, but hardly one of the world’s greats. (It is, however, better than some of the Viet beers, once described in a U.S. Vietnam War memoir as being akin to tiger’s urine.)
Phil is a good egg and service is very attentive. I should add, though, that we were there on a Sunday night, so our waitress only had two tables competing for her attention.
Verdict: yet another worthy addition to Seoul’s ever-expanding international dining hub. Saigon Grill is a pleasant and elegant spot for a date and/or a meal. Both the food and the ambience may come into their own in the warmer months.

Saigon Grill
English spoken
Tel: 793-7784
Address: 1 Fl, #119-7, Itaewon 1 Dong, Yongsan distirict (Next to Hamilton Hotel, in the alley on the left)
Subway: Itaewon
Hours: Weekdays: 11:30AM-12:00PM; Weekends: 11:30AM-4:00AM
No parking
Dress: Come as you are

By Andrew Salmon Contributing Writer [andrewcsalmon@yahoo.co.uk]
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