It’s transition time at Three Alleys Pub
Pork, sauerkraut and potato.
“I’ve drunk too much beer, too much jaegermeister ― I’m retiring for health reasons,” laments the near-legendary barman. “I’m going to take it easy for one or two years.”
You can take that with a hefty pinch of salt, but the good news is that this ship of suds retains a firm hand at the helm: That of Canadian Albert Ryan. “I taught him everything I know,” says Gunther.
Ryan took a 40 percent share in the bar in 2004 and is now sole proprietor.
“Well, my wife is, but she gives me permission to say ‘I’m the boss,’” he says. He vows to maintain the formula. “We’ve got a proven concept here, and if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
And the concept?
“We get an older crowd of 35 and up, which is unusual in Itaewon,” says Albert, whose wedding reception took place in the pub. “We get Koreans exploring Itaewon who come here to see what foreigners eat and drink, and any foreigner looking for a beer can take a seat at the bar and strike up a chat.”
Three Alleys was a key player in turning the once dark, dank alley behind the Hamilton Hotel into what it is today ― Korea’s most cosmopolitan wining and dining scene. While the Ho Lee Chow and Saint-Ex restaurants were the first to set up shop there, it was the pub that lured the crowds. The rest, as they say, is history. Today, Chinese, French, Greek, Indonesian, Pakistani, Thai and Vietnamese eateries are jammed shoulder-to-shoulder.
Three Alleys is a large, international-style pub with a few tables on the street and an enclosed terrace. In the noisy main room are a long bar and booths. Clientele include businessmen, diplomats, military base workers and teachers. There are pool and darts leagues, and some very blue jokes posted in the restroom. There is an active philanthrophic scene: those who buy a bar plaque for 23,000 won ($25) are donating 20,000 won of that to charities that include North Korean refugee relief and local orphanages. Wednesday is German night with steak tartare. Thursday is quiz night.
Food wise there is a one-page, German-accented menu. We start with Caesar salad (7,500 won), a huge bowl of leaves, drenched in piquant sauce and parmesan, complete with crispy croutons and bacon ― though no anchovies, alas. Still, this is a light meal in itself.
Three Alley Pub’s new proprietor, Albert Ryan. By Andrew Salmon
The bar boasts eight taps, from which cascade Korean OB, Philippine San Mig, German Krombacher Pils, Rhenanian Alt, Erdinger Weizen, Canadian Alley Kat, Belgian Hoegaarden and Irish Guinness.
We start with pils (3,500 won): “This has a good crisp aftertaste as it should,” says American Eric Thorpe, a business consultant and Three Alleys regular. “It’s the best pils in the country.” Darker fare is next: Rhenanian Alt (4,500 won). “Good and malty ― a fine example of the style,” says Thorpe.
Finally comes the flagship Alley Kat Pale Ale (4,500 won). This copper colored brew is powerfully hopped, with a creamy head. “A great example of a North American, West Coast pale ale with detectable Cascade hops,” is Thorpe’s judgment. While Hoegaarden is probably the best beer match with spicy food, and Guinness is a better bet in winter, this is my personal favorite beer in Korea.
Service at Three Alleys is better than some 5-star hotels.
The top barmaid here, Kim Na-young, is friendly, fun and efficient. You rarely see empty glasses in her vicinity.
Verdict: Here’s hoping that “Three Alleys” will remain what it was ― Seoul’s top foreign-focused boozer. Chances are it will. Albert and his wife have recently had a baby, and the little one is already being spoken of as “the future proprietor.”
Three Alleys Pub
English: Spoken
Tel: 749-3336
Location: In the alley behind Itaewon’s Hamilton Hotel
Subway: Itaewon
Hours: Weekdays: Midday to 12:30 a.m.
Weekends: Midday to 1:30 a.m.
Dress: Come as you are
By Andrew Salmon Contributing Writer
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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