Loco Loca joins global scene in Itaewon
Latino appetisers at Loco Loca
For those who have not been there on a fine June evening, the once-poky little alley behind the Hamilton Hotel is an eye-opener. All along the street, as the sun sinks, a cosmopolitan crowd is meeting, chatting, eating and drinking on decks, balconies and terraces. There are pockets like this in Garosu-gil in Gangnam and in Hongdae, but not jammed into such a small, lively, colorful space. With Bulgarian restaurants rubbing shoulders with Thai establishments, and with French brasseries competing with British-style pubs, this is far and away the most international dining scene in Seoul. And now it has gone al fresco, big time.
This may be why so many of the Apgujeong/Cheongdam trendmeisters now frequent the area. My wife overheard one Gucci-clad young princess in the alley gasping, “I never thought Itaewon would be this pleasant.”
So why on earth is the city ― which reportedly wants to increase foreign tourism, and which has done similar things in Insa-dong, Anguk- Dong and elsewhere ― not closing this alley for pedestrians, paving the concrete, planting a few trees, adding a bench or two, installing lamps and creating a tourist zone to compare with Singapore’s riverside and Hong Kong’s Lang Kwai Fong? Your guess is as good as mine.
Proprietors of establishments along this street have no clue either. Among said establishments, the newest is Loco Loca, the latest addition to the Itaewon empire of Frenchman Pascal Biannic-Leger and his wife, Lee Tayeon. Their empire currently encompasses the Bungalow (cocktail bar), La Tavola (pizzeria), Embassy Lounge (bar/nightclub) and La Cigale (brasserie).
The international makeup of the area means it can be tricky to nail down a concept that has not been done.
“It's difficult not to overlap, difficult to find something new,” Pascal says. With Loco Loca, he may have succeeded, though: It is described as a “Vino Bar y Pizzeria.”
Downstairs it’s a colorful bar-restaurant with tables on the street ― though the slightly elevated view from the shaded bar is probably a better bet if you want to watch the world go by. Inside the walls are painted in red and green, dimly illuminated by crimson chandeliers. Muzak is throbbing Latin. It is early yet, but post-dinner salsa is planned. A set of exterior steps lead up to a chill-out lounge bar on top (food served only to pre-booked parties), which features one table set in an ankle-deep wading pool.
Loco Loca
We begin with pozole (i.e. Mexican soup; 12,000 won) and empanadas (pastry pies: 9,000 won). The pozole contains shrimp, scallops, chicken, lime juice and corn. Given the lime juice, it’s a refreshing concoction, so not as thick and oily as a pork pozole. Of the three empanadas, one contains cheese and two minced beef; all come in a crusty golden pastry envelope, and a fresh, spritzy salsa. So far,so good.
For main dishes, it is Pizzadilla Tequila (14,000 won), Pizzadilla Loca (18,000 won) and chili con carne (21,000 won). As a chap of conservative taste, I often find fault with funky and creative pizzas, but these two work. The Loca is a colorful mix of bell peppers, ground beef, cumin, japalapeno, onion, spicy sausage, cilantro, lime and cheese. The sausage is a disappointment but the rest gels: it is mildly, but not uncomfortably, spicy. The Tequila is a more restrained blend of fresh cream, onions, bacon cheese and flambeed tequila. This is a sweeter, gentler pizza, though the tequila proved invisible.
The chili is a huge platter of minced meat, chopped carrot, garlic, onion and beans, plus a tiny bowl of dry rice. It is substantial, but needs a touch more spice if you ask me.
My only real complaint with Loco Loca is the wine list: Most selections start at well north of 50,000 won ― which is bloody steep for a place that is more cocktail bar than wine bar. We order a bottle of Chilean Terrazo Chardonnay (77,000 won ― which I am still growling about).
A very flowery nose, and a blend of oak and pineapple in the mouth.
A related irritation is the sangria, which is served by the glass, not the jug. What?!
Management assures me that these points will be taken care of. We shall see. Service is friendly, colorfully adorned and seemed on the ball.
Verdict: Grub? B. Price range? C. Ambience, concept and location? A+. Now, further upgrades to this area can only come from City Hall.
Loco Loca
English: Spoken
Tel: 796-1606
Address: 116-22 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan
Subway: Itaewon
Hours: Midday-2 a.m, closed from 3 to 6 p.m. weekdays
Dress: Casual and colorful
By Andrew Salmon Contriuting Writer [andrewcsalmon@yahoo.co.uk]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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