A small sampling of noodle shops in Seoul
Naengsijenmyeon, or cold noodle dish.
1. Alkongdalkong Ossiguksu means “Mr. Oh’s Pleasantly Harmonious Noodles.” The Yangjae-dong restaurant marries beans, one of the most popular varieties in the legume family, with white flour noodles. Called “the meat of the fields” by Koreans, many of the dishes at this eatery feature beans in one form or another. The A course menu (17,000 won, $18) provides enough grub for two, with bean porridge, acorn jelly, Korean acorn pancakes, and a choice between the aforementioned kongguksu or kalguksu (flour noodles in hot broth). Side dishes on the set menu cater to the well-being craze. The eatery is a frequent lunchtime haunt of Korean ajummas, who enjoy munching on potato rice cakes as the nostalgic and pedestrian finale to their meal.
2. Koreans don’t just seek cold noodles during the summer months. Woorimilgukssi, meaning “Our Wheat Policy,” in Seongbuk-dong, is run by a halmeoni (grandmother) from South Gyeongsang who established the eatery almost 20 years ago. Its flagship dish is kalguksu (6,000 won), and here the flour noodles are hand-rolled and hand cut into thin, wide strips. A savory and filling stock made from Korean beef (hanwoo) brisket adds depth to the meal, and an option of adding hot pepper sauce punches up the dish. Nowadays the establishment has turned to using imported flour. Reservations are recommended for lunch and weekends.
3. Another eatery specializing in local Korean noodle dishes is such a crowd-pleaser that its patrons have dubbed it as a shop where you wait outside to eat. Myeong-dong Halmeoni Guksu, meaning “Myeong-dong Grandma’s Noodles,” has been in the area for some 60 odd years, and its reasonably priced food has made it a favorite of locals. Its most popular dish is dubuguksu, or tofu noodles (3,000 won). Tofu and noodles float together in a seafood broth, and though the establishment uses noodles from a different location, it makes its own silken tofu. As the Korean proverb “seonjuhumyeon” (drink first and eat noodles afterward) says, thin noodles and soft bean curd make for a sensational treat for the palate, especially after a night with friends.
4. Those looking for an assortment of flavors are best advised to hit up Czen, a nation-wide franchise with a branch in Myeong-dong. Czen hot bibimmyeon (spicy mixed noodles), and gonyak noodles (gelatinous noodles) are representative of the restaurant (6,900 won each). Naengsijenmyeon has noodles floating in a cold udon broth, accompanied by katsuobushi (Japanese fermented fish flakes) and shrimp tempura. Hot bibimmyeon with sprouts, almonds, and salami, really alleviates the occasional heat-induced stupor. If one opts for the two or more menu, one can pick from different flavored noodles, including pumpkin, green tea, red pepper, cactus and squid ink. The squid ink noodles add a unique taste to any dish, and the green tea noodles hint at sophistication, but you can’t go wrong with versatile pumpkin. Hot pepper noodles kick up the spiciness of hot bibimmyeon several more notches. The truly bold and daring dieters should try the “zero calorie” gonyak noodles.
5. If you want to sample a global offering of dishes, try Myeon Sarang, meaning “Noodle Love.” Originally a noodle manufacturer with items available for purchase from department stores and local groceries, the company has recently opened a restaurant, where one can sample janchiguksu, a Korean noodle dish with anchovy or beef broth, as well as Italian spaghetti and Japanese buckwheat soba noodles. Its open kitchen policy allows patrons to view the food being prepared. Myeon Sarang guksu (5,000 won), named after the eatery, is prepared with beef brisket stock, seasoned vegetables, and meat, and its lack of preservatives has earned it the title of a “well-being” noodle dish. One can eat the dish plain or add hot pepper sauce to counteract its mildness.
Pyeongyang mulnaengmyeon, or cold noodles prepared in a beef stock with radish kimchi, is another favorite. Be prepared to wait during busy lunch hours.
By Yoo Jee-sang JoongAng Ilbo [estyle@joongang.co.kr]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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