Exclusive Sam eatery not for scrimpers
It’s a conundrum.
To satisfy the appetites of the old-generation emperors, there are an abundance of traditional eating houses north of the river, but in the south, where the current generation of chaebol princes are wont to party, selections can be a bit trickier. Dining palaces in this hood come and go at a remarkable rate.
One new possibility is Cheongdam Dong’s Sam, opened in June by investor Danny Choi and restaurateur Hwang Jung-yeon, the latter being the brains behind the popular noodle house Misses Mai in the Seoul Finance Center.
Their latest venture is a different beast than the affordable Misses Mai, whose target market in Gwanghwamun is office workers in their 20s and 30s, Choi said. Cheongdam Dong’s Sam is more focused on the affluent segment in their 40s or 50s and up.
Indeed. The interior is decked out in modish black, white and burnt amber. There is fine art on the walls of the main dining room. For backroom deals, the place to be is the private room, a tasteful blend of old and new. A faux window looks out on a waterwall, complete with a pale tree, An antique wood panel featuring painted Korean tigers graces the wall.
The menu is a short affair. Selections are traditional Korean, but with a touch of creativity in the preparation and the very finest ingredients.
Nun-i mushroom bibimbap ― a steal at 18,000 won ($19) ― is your classic bibimbap, but with this rare mushroom as the key ingredient. It is also served with black sesame oil, which is, I have to say, a fine ingredient that needs to be more widely served. If there is such a thing as a gourment bibimbap, this is it.
Buchu suyuk (32,000 won) is a delicate dish of steamed pork. It is served on a bed of chives, in a pan heated over a brazier fueled by a lump of black, jellied petrol.
This is definitely not your average neighborhood suyuk: It is lean, tender and moist, with a delicacy of flavor unusual in his dish.
Yukhoi (35,000 won), or raw beef, is served in five delicate mounds, rather than one mass. Two of these mounds are spicy and one is sealed with an egg, steak Tartare style.
Despite the rather nouveau ideas at work here, we find the best one to be the traditional one ― served with shredded pear and chestnut.
Another winner is a mound, lightly spiced and served with cucumber, which adds a pleasing textural contrast to the beef.
My only issue with the above is that they are served in gourmet-style (read: minimalist) portions.
Fortunately there is an unending supply of side dishes, as well presented as they are tasty.
These include some crunchy kakktuki, lotus root in an alarmingly purple sauce (Side dish or objet d' art? You decide), little, glistening jellies of beef knee cartilage and white cabbage with bean paste dip.
The standout for me was something I have never tried before ― tomato kimchi.
This was a very fresh tasting and gently zesty condiment ― so much so that I am surprised I have not encountered it before.
The two-page wine list is a pleasant surprise.
Although there are a number of price tags north of 500,000 won, there is also a decent selection from 30,000. Bottles are predominantly French, with a number of New World vintages too.
Being bad boys, we drank beer.
Service is approachable and available, and as those who have dined at Misses Mai will know, Hwang is a kind and professional hostess.
Verdict: Top-notch ingredients, decent execution and that all-important exclusivity.
But definitely a spot for princes rather than paupers.
Sam
No English
Tel: 3443-0300
Address: Basement, Smart Exchange, 648-12 Shinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu.
Parking: Valet available
Hours: Noon to 10:30 p.m., seven days
Dress: Business/smart casual
By Andrew Salmon Contributing Writer [andrewcsalmon@yahoo.co.uk]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
To write comments, please log in to one of the accounts.
Standards Board Policy (0/250자)