Italian design house looks beyond its logo
At first sight the blurry image of the Duomo di Firenze on display in a local Ferragamo store appears to be the work of either an amateur or an auteur.In fact the photograph is part of an exhibition of street scenes of Florence called “In The Daze,” on display at the Italian designer’s boutique in Cheongdam-dong. The exhibit’s venue is a sign that the selling of luxury in Korea has evolved from the overt promotion of logos toward something with more artistic subtlety.
“One doesn’t necessarily perceive truth from a well-focused image of reality,” said photographer Kim Yong-ho of his exhibit, which runs until Nov. 14. In March, the design firm invited Kim to Florence to photograph actress Kim Hye-soo, one of Ferragamo’s Korean muses. Inspired by the opulent city, Kim proposed the idea of a creative collaboration to Ferragamo executives there.
The transfer of Ferragamo’s Florentine inspiration to the Korean photographer’s philosophical images shows how deeply the Italian brand has been integrated into the Korean aesthetic.
People here easily recognize the “Ferragamo bow,” which adorns the brand’s award-winning “Vara” shoes, as well as other various accouterments. By the mid-1990s the dainty grosgrain bow became one of fashion’s most recognized status symbols.
Ferragamo fandom has not been limited to women. Male patrons in Ferragamo neckties at the event didn’t have to worry about running into anyone else wearing the same tie. “There are that many Ferragamo ties out there,” said Cho In-won, publisher of Cosmopolitan Korea.
The fashion show at the Grand Hyatt following the reception proved the spirit of Ferragamo endures on the competitive catwalk. The hotel’s grand ballroom became a giant circular runway inspired by the brand’s “Gancino” symbol, against a backdrop of LCD images by Italian carmaker Maserati, Ferragamo’s latest luxury design partner.
Today Ferragamo’s look mimics the put-together diva who, like Claudia Schiffer in the designer’s recent campaign, may step out in style from a stretch limousine. Oversized sunglasses, trendy tweed suits, glossy platform heels and the latest “it” bag dominate the designer’s aesthetic.
Before Ferragamo Korea launched in 1997 with just two stores, it was initially imported through small trading partners. Now the brand rakes in 600 billion won ($65 million) in sales per year through 23 boutiques and 11 duty-free stores nationwide. “Korea is our No. 3 market in the world, after the United States and Japan. It takes up 9.5 percent of our total sales,” said Michele Norsa, Ferragamo’s chief executive.
The ubiquitous presence of the graceful Giovanna Gentile Ferragamo, vice president of the group’s holding company and the late designer’s daughter, at events made visible the brand’s regard for the Korean market.
Proud of her family ties, she showed off a gold coin necklace inscribed with the names of her family members. “Wanda [Ferragamo] is my mother,” she said. “I’m here, and another family member is in Dallas for Nieman Marcus’s 100th anniversary gala.”
At the gala dinner hosted by Italian Ambassador Massimo Andrea Leggeri, Giovanna Ferragamo acted as the country’s ambassador of fashion, chatting with guests including Choi Ah-young, the wife of prime minister Han Duck-soo, and Dho Young-shim, chairwoman of a United Nations World Tourism Organization foundation.
After a year of shaking up the company, Norsa is eager to offer more from Ferragamo. “I’m looking into a home collection or even a hotel somewhere in Europe,” he said.
By Ines cho Contributing Writer [inescho@joongang.co.kr]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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