Fine Italian dining raises bar in Itaewon
It’s not often that I refute a fellow columnist, but I must following Dan Jeffreys’ demolition of Itaewon on these two pages two weeks ago.Certainly, there is tawdriness and a whiff of sleaze floating around the district, but Itaewon’s “sulfurous back passages” are also the top hub for foreign grub in the republic.
Given that food is one of life’s great pleasures and one’s native cuisine is perhaps the thing people away from hearth and home miss most, it should surprise nobody that Itaewon is often packed.
Where else on the Korean Peninsula does one find pubs, wine bars, French, Greek, Turkish, Thai, Chinese and Pakistani restaurants jammed knee-to-knee? And with affordable prices? I’ll tell you where ― nowhere.
Itaewon is also Seoul’s most cosmopolitan neighborhood. This is the district’s intrinsic merit.
Now I grant you, local government could (but won’t) beautify the district’s physical infrastructure.
And most dining here is of the casual, rather than high-end variety. But as of October, the district hosts a restaurant that throws down the gauntlet to every other top-end foreign eatery on the peninsula.
Welcome to Villa Sortino. Opened by Santino Sortino, head chef of the popular trattoria Sortinos just across the road; his father Carmelo, a master chef and restaurant consultant himself; Santino’s wife Sonya Kim and Korean culinary entrepreneur Chris Kim, this ristorante and lounge raises Itaewon’s game to new heights.
You won’t know it until you are inside, though. Inauspiciously, we enter via a flight of stairs to a basement. I am greeted by Chef at reception. “What’s this junk?” I inquire, pointing at a hideous, chipped gilt balustrade serving as reception counter.
If a Sicilian can look scandalized, Chef does now. “That's from the Scala Opera House in Milano!” he splutters. Ah.
Once inside, my jaw drops. This is a different world. First, you are in a tiled courtyard. On the left is a wickedly elegant Milanese-style lounge bar. On the right is the beamed dining room proper. Behind that is the bustling open kitchen, and a loaded deli counter.
Finally, there is a walk-in cellar ― complete with tables for those who like to dine with the wine.
The airiness, tiled floors and French windows separating the different areas impart an al fresco ambience ― strike me dead if this is not the most elegant foreign eating establishment in Seoul.
The menu is voluminous with a firm focus on Italian classics.
We begin with Carpaccio di Manzo for 19,000 won ($21) ― delicate discs of scarlet beef, drizzled in black truffle oil and lemon, then snowed on with shavings of Gran Padano.
The meat is beautifully moist and delicate, the foresty truffle oil complemented by the zesty lemon.
Next it is Cinghiale Fettucini (22,000 won); pasta with fresh sausage of wild boar. Sortino did not pot the porker himself. It was shot near the DMZ.
The sausage is thick skinned, encompassing a lovely pink meat in a peppery tomato sauce. Koreans like their noodles cooked limp, but here the pasta is al dente.
The main dish is Filet di Manzo (37,000 won); a beautiful tenderloin of Aussie Wagyu beef, served with porcini mushrooms and a five-day demiglace. In truth, the sauce is unnecessary. This is a lovely cut of cow, served medium rare, succulent and tender.
We finish with a sinful dessert of pastry cream horn with cinnamon, almond, raisins and a dark chocolate gateau.
The wine list is extensive, with a heavy accent on Italian. Prices are steep, with most bottles starting in the 45,000 won range.
Fortunately there are several wines by the glass. We sup a Mangaciane Chianti Classico 2004 (69,000 won), specially imported by Sortino’s.
It has a light body, but with strong, dark fruity notes in both nose and mouth, so it is versatile enough to suit everything we eat.
Service is professional, and there is even valet parking (a first for Itaewon).
The Sortinos want this place to be “an oasis in Seoul.” And it is.
The bar, by the way, offers snacks ― bruschetta, olives, cheeses and more ― from 6 to 9 p.m. Christmas parties can look forward to roast suckling pig.
Verdict: Villa Sortino is already luring ambassadors and local movie stars to Itaewon.
It is ideal for that special occasion ― romance, business or simply the pleasure of fine fodder in fine surroundings.
Sortino has raised the bar not just for Itaewon, but for the town as a whole. Magnifico!
Villa Sortino
English: Spoken
Tel: 553-9000
Address: 124-12 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu
Subway: Itaewon
Hours: Dining: Noon to 2:30 p.m.; 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.
Open seven days.
Reservations recommended.
Parking: Valet
By Andrew Salmon Contributing Writer [andrewcsalmon@yahoo.co.uk]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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