My memories of a burger betrayed

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My memories of a burger betrayed

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Chili cheese fries and a cheese burger from Thunder Burger. By Cho Jae-eun

Over the last five years or so, Korea has experienced a sort of renaissance in burger culture with various franchises, including Kraze Burger and Freshness Burger, offering home-style burgers made with fresh beef instead of frozen meat bought in bulk.
Now before I tell you why I think Thunder Burger needs some work, I want to state for the record that I think burgers are awesome. They’re classic, universal, cheap and unfussy. It’s meat, cheese, onions and bread in one convenient package, what more can you ask for? I’ve been a fan ever since my first taste in a Lotteria in southern Seoul twenty-something years ago.
Now Thunder Burger. Located in Itaewon near Noksapyeong Station amid a nest of take-out places lining the street, it looks promising at first glance. This is a place that seems to promise home-made quality and cozy neighborhood appeal.
The establishment claims to use fresh Australian beef. About a year ago, when I first tasted their burgers, I could believe that statement ― the beef was really good. And as the patty was the main attraction, visitors could choose to have them cooked like steak ― rare, medium, or well-done.
This week, I paid a return visit, keeping in mind how good the burgers were last time. I ordered a cheese burger (6,000 won, $6.50) and chili cheese fries. The fries were still excellent, far from the grease-drenched generic fries in McDonalds (which I also willingly indulge in from time to time when I want to be really bad), each one plump and delicately nutty with crisp edges.
The burger on the other hand, especially the patty, was a disaster. Maybe he was in a bad mood but the waiter didn’t even bother to ask how I wanted it done. It was cooked well-done (probably because I am Korean and the waiter assumed that I don’t like slightly rare meat, which is not true) and had somewhat of a foul smell. It no longer had the juiciness of the pungent, fresh beef from last year.
It’s kind of like those times, when you hear the buzz about a new band, fresh out of the underground scene ― for me it was The Killers a few years back ―?and listen to their album and find out that the new Justin Timberlake album playing everywhere is really much better. If you happen to pass by Thunder Burger and are craving a hamburger, go to Burger King and get a Whopper instead.

Thunder Burger is located near Noksapyeong Station, line No. 6, exit 3. It opens daily, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. For more information, call (02) 796-7005.

By Cho Jae-eun Staff Reporter [jainnie@joongang.co.kr]
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