[Kitchen Talk]Where north and south combine

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[Kitchen Talk]Where north and south combine

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Belgian Ambassador Pierre Clement Dubuisson at the Belgian Embassy in Hannam-dong. By Jeong Chi-ho

“Who else will do it? You?”

In the 1996 movie “Executive Decision,” Steven Seagal, playing a special forces commander, tells an intelligence officer (Kurt Russell) that his team is taking over the rescue of a hijacked airliner.

That particular line has always stuck with me for some reason. Walking in downtown Seoul or looking at old black-and-white pictures of the country, I sometimes wonder what would have happened had the good guys not won the Korean War. Granted, South Koreans have worked very hard to build modern Korea, but it all started when the country received help.

Half a century later, when we hear on the news that a wreath-laying ceremony took place at the Korean War Veterans Memorial, it’s like grasping at a distant fading memory. Yet, for those who fought and died here and their family members, it’s an unfinished life that ended far away from home. These are brave men indeed.

In 1950, Belgium sent a battalion of 602 volunteer soldiers, including a 44-man detachment from Luxembourg, to fight in the Korean War alongside South Korean troops.

Of the 3,498 Belgian troops who fought here, 336 were injured, 99 died, and five are still missing while one prisoner of war was returned.

Belgian Ambassador Pierre Clement Dubuisson’s first contact with this country started with memories of the Korean War. When he was a small child, listening to a radio at home that conveyed how Belgian troops were fighting in a country named “Korea,” he bugged his mother with questions like “But where is Korea?”

“The Korean War was very often mentioned on the radio. I remember asking my mother, ‘Why are Belgian people there?’” said the ambassador. “But personally, I would never have expected to become an ambassador to Korea until a few months ago.”

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Mussels prepared Belgian style. From the book 220 recettes de cuisine Belge d’hier et d’aujourd’hui

Not afraid to venture out on the subway by himself, Dubuisson explores the city on his days off. One point of criticism he had to offer was that he missed the presence of interesting architectural buildings, which he hoped was an issue the government could address.

“During the weekend I simply take my car and drive around or take a walk in the mountains,” said the ambassador.

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Belgian-style waffles are popular here. Woman JoongAng Monthly

I usually set up these meetings with a request for one or two traditional dishes from the respective country, but circumstances made it hard this time. I still went because I didn’t know of any Belgium restaurants here, or, for that matter, how to find one.

Heck, I wasn’t even sure what exactly Belgian cuisine was. So why not ask the highest-ranking Belgian here for advice?

Luckily, the lack of food was well compensated with a thorough lecture on the climate and how that helped to shape Belgian cuisine. Ambassador Dubuisson was also armed with cookbooks and recipes when we met.

Having been here for several months, the ambassador said he was confident enough now to try the local food without any second thoughts. “I know now this is hot, this is less hot. I know now how to combine the ingredients so that my mouth is not torn apart,” he said, chuckling.

He explained that Belgian food is a cross between Germanic and Latin influences, due to the geographical line running through the country.

“You can’t say it’s a Nordic country, [or that] it’s a southern country. It’s in the middle,” he said. “It’s never too cold or never too hot either. But we do have a lot of rain which is good for agriculture. We have all kinds of soil.”

This soil allows the country to grow potatoes in the north, vegetables in the central region and wine in the south. “It’s obvious the basic reference of Belgian cuisine is French plus the characteristics of Belgium.”

The ambassador said that unlike Korean cuisine, where lots of side dishes are served, Belgian food is usually presented on a single dish where the main course is prepared along with potatoes or vegetables.

The country’s more than 400 brands of local beer has also resulted in its use in the culinary arts. “So one of the characteristics of Belgian cuisine that they don’t have in France is the cooking with beer.”

For instance, Flemish rabbit is marinated for 24 hours in cold beer before being put into an oven. For meat lovers like myself, this sounds just too good, and I make a mental note to try this dish at the next opportunity.

Although it only has a population of about 10.4 million and a land area roughly equaling that of the U.S. state of Maryland, Belgium is home to brands that are global household names.

Do Godiva and Guylian ring a bell? These are only a few representatives of the Belgian chocolate empire that has conquered the world. There is also Anheuser Busch InBev, which has given us a steady supply of booze in the form of Budweiser and Beck’s beer.

“The figures are good but there is room for improvement. For instance, in the field of chemistry, medical imagery technology and harbor logistics,” the ambassador said.

To help him further trade in such possible sectors, the ambassador’s biggest task right now is preparing for a visit by Crown Prince Philip, who will be accompanied by a delegation of 100 business executives, in May next year. A Belgian food festival may also be held during that time.

Dubuisson gave me the name of one Belgian restaurant that I immediately resolved to visit. In fact, by the time you read this column I will probably have been there. I might one day tell you what I thought of it, but not here. It might just become my best kept secret.



By Brian Lee Staff Reporter [africanu@joongang.co.kr]
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