Fragrant tea in a house where the aroma can be heard

Tea at Moonhyangjae By Ser Myo-ja

During my recent wanderings around central Seoul, I have spotted new buildings on the quiet road that goes from Art Sonjae Center to the Constitutional Court. The paved and hilly pathway is one of my favorite places for a promenade, and I have been happy to see the area’s transformation over the years. What used to be a deserted residential area with a few neighborhood stores selling eggs, hardware and antique Korean furniture is now a lively place for galleries, restaurants and cafes.

After a feast of a juicy hamburger, a hot dog, chili cheese fries and grape Fanta at a newly-opened burger joint in the area, my friend and I decided to have a healthier dessert to finish our night.

Although many old buildings in the area have been redecorated with new features, Moonhyangjae, a Korean teahouse, has stayed the same for years. It is situated inside a hanok (traditional Korean house) and its interior is decorated with wooden tables and chairs designed after a modern interpretation of traditional Korean furniture. The place is operated by a group of Won Buddhists, and there are beautiful photos of Tibetan landscapes hanging on the walls, providing an added air of tranquility.

Moonhyangjae translates into “a house where the aroma can be heard,” and the two cups of tea we ordered both had incredible fragrances.

Moonhyangjae’s gate

I tried a cup of Moonhyang tea (5,000 won), one of the cafe’s signature teas. It was a blending of wild berry and yuzu tea and the sweet and refreshing scent was soothing. It was a bit tangy at first, almost like having a bite of fresh fruit, but the aftertaste was mildly sweet. After a feast of greasy food, I was happy to cleanse my palate with something fresh.

My friend tried the cafe’s jujube tea (5,000 won). It had a rich essence and was garnished with slices of jujube. While most jujube teas sold at other cafes and markets are very sugary, this one tasted more like an herbal tonic. I tried a sip, and the intense jujube taste was a pleasant surprise. It also matches well with the complimentary rice cakes, which are filled with sesame and brown sugar fillings.

The cafe also offers a wide range of other Korean teas such as omija (five tastes) tea, green tea and sweet red bean porridge. The teas are offered both warm and iced, and the lady of the teahouse makes a recommendation about which tea is better to drink cold.

In addition to the tables in the main hall, the cafe also has a small room that connects to the outside garden, and reservations are recommended because the place is popular among visitors to the neighborhood.

Moonhyangjae is not a fancy cafe like those often found on the streets of Seoul. It’s easy to pass by the entrance unless you really pay attention and look for it, because there is no grand sign outside. What it is, however, is a jewel hidden in the busy city where you can find a true moment of rest with a cup of fragrant tea.

Moonhyangjae

Location: 106-2, Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Telephone: (02) 720-9691

By Ser Myo-ja [myoja@joongang.co.kr]

korea joongAng daily

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Fragrant tea in a house where the aroma can be heard

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