Home-grown designs are Korea’s latest ‘it bags’
Most of the so-called “it bags” - a colloquial term in the fashion industry that refers to a type of designer handbag that becomes a popular best-seller for that season - have been those high-priced luxury brands, such as the Hermes Kelly Bag and Chanel Flap Bag. Whether they are real or imitations, it’s easy to spot these bags being carried by many women every season. But recently, among these luxury it bags, an increasing number of people have been seen carrying certain types of bags that have not yet been identified in the global fashion industry, but are definitely gaining popularity.After some research, the JoongAng Ilbo found out that these bags have several things in common. They are not the latest designs from luxury brands, but products of young Korean designers. The designers sold them first through blogs or by opening up small stores. The bags are also not that expensive, costing around 100,000 to 200,000 won ($87 to $173). Finally, large fashion companies and department stores have been eager to sign up with these brands. To learn more about this trend, the reporter met with the designers of these new it bags.
KWANI
Sohn Kyung-wan, 38. She is a mother of three who majored in fine art in college. Currently, she runs the bag brand KWANI and the shoe brand Heavenly Jelly.
Sohn Kyung-wan, who founded the brand KWANI, is a mother of three who majored in art during college. After designing a bag targeting women in their 30s looking for an easy-to-carry bag for everyday use in 2012, she began selling it through her personal blog. The bag began to catch on, allowing Sohn to finally open her own store last year. In just two years, Sohn’s bag became so popular that she is now receiving offers from local department stores to distribute her bag. The reason behind the bag’s popularity is its special design, which Sohn developed after much consideration. The unique rectangular cover has a hole where the handles are attached so users can easily reach in to get something out quickly without having to open the bag. Due to this special feature, this Hornet Bag is also known as the Cover Bag. The most popular design among the Hornet Bags is the Black Stud. The bag, which has black studs on the lower part, is KWANI’s top-selling product. Sohn said this design accounts for 80 percent of the brand’s sales.
“Studs have been a popular item for decoration since a few years ago, but products with these studs were not the most appealing item for general female customers,” said Sohn. “To appeal to a wider female audience using studs, I decided to remove the pointy ends and used them to design a bag. When it came out, the response was explosive.”
The bag is priced at 82,000 won. The most expensive KWANI bag costs around 130,000 won. Although many people recommend she use leather and increase the price, Sohn says she has no interest. Her goal is to maintain the current low cost yet gain recognition for high-quality bags. That is why she decided to open her shop in an old-style hanok.
Playnomore
Kim Chae-yeon, 35. Just a year after launching her brand Playnomore, she opened an independent store in Myeong-dong, central Seoul. She previously ran a shoe brand.
Designer Kim Chae-yeon, who launched the brand, said she wanted to express that “bags are not just a tool to make your life a little more convenient, but a friend that can make you smile.” So Kim came up with the eye design.
“The shape of the bag is quite traditional,” said Kim. “However, the design of the eyes makes it stand out. .?.?. That’s the charm of the ‘Shy Girl’ design.”
Most customers also express satisfaction, saying that “a lot of people take notice of the bag and ask what brand it is.”
Celebrities like Byun Jung-soo and Park Ji-yoon, as well as global stars like Tyra Banks, also took notice of Playnomore’s Shy Girl bag early on, and that’s when it started gaining popularity.
Since then, Kim says she has received offers from fashion brands, designers and even cosmetics brands for collaboration projects. Kim recently launched a new line by collaborating with Korean model Irene, and she will soon launch a Shy Girl edition for cosmetic brand Laneige.
Playnomore’s witty design is also being noticed globally. According to Kim, 40 percent of the current sales are coming from overseas. The prices of Playnomore’s bags range from 100,000 won to about 200,000 won.
“It’s a pity that bags for women are being treated like a symbol for ostentation,” said Kim. “Through Shy Girl, I hope that bags are purchased not to show off but to express one’s personality and characteristics.”
Ogram
Ogram is a brand that specializes in luggage and carry-on bags. According to the brand, the “O” in Ogram refers to a shape of a circle that signifies sharing. Adding that in front of “gram,” a unit of measure for weight, the brand name suggests that users “travel with a light heart.”
Oh Eun-young, 32. The brand stemmed from Oh’s personal experience of searching for a pretty yet affordable carry-on. The girlish designs and colors are popular among women.
“Back then, there were not many designs for luggage and carry-on bags to choose from,” said Oh. “It was either a black one or a gray one. As I am into girly designs and cute animal characters, I designed the bag to suit my taste. The bag instantly became an attention-grabber and it went viral among female travelers.
At first, Oh focused on the design only. As a result, Ogram managed to create its signature illustration, patterns and flashy colors. But after two or three years, she began to receive an increasing number of customer complaints and requests for repairs, alleging the bags were not strong. In order to create luggage that is durable, convenient and pretty, she decided to upgrade the materials. For the wheels, she uses the famous Japanese luggage wheel manufacturer Hinomoto’s wheels, while replacing the main material with polycarbonate.
The most popular design for Ogram is a 20-inch gold rabbit suitcase priced at 168,000 won.
“I have no target consumers,” said Oh. “I noticed even elderly women in their 60s and 70s purchasing Ogram bags. Anyone with girly tastes will be our consumers.”
BLC Brand
Kim Woo-jin, 34. Together with three other male designers, Kim launched Brownbreth. This year, they decided to separate the bags from the apparel and launched the new bag brand BLC Brand. Provided by each brand
Recently, the four designers - Kim Woo-jin, Lee Geun-baek, Lee Ji-yong and Seo In-jae - decided to separate the brands for bags and apparel, creating the sub-brand BLC Brand for the bags.
Each of the four designers used to design T-shirts. But in 2006, they decided to come together and launch a brand. They quickly created two lines of rectangular-framed backpacks for men and called them a “Definition-pack” and “Urban-pack.” The major characteristic of the backpacks, according to the designers, is its functionality. Not only does it have a large storage space, the front pocket is detachable, able to turn into a men’s clutch. It also comes with a strap with which users can attach a skateboard or an umbrella.
“We’ve designed a practical backpack thinking about the needs of our target consumers, who are students in their teens and 20s,” said Lee Do-hyun, a marketing manager of BLC Brand. “The Definition-pack began to gain popularity among young male students, and since then other backpack companies began to launch rectangular-shaped backpacks as well.”
Within five years, the sales increased by 300 percent, and the brand currently operates three independent stores and six stores inside department stores.
“As the lifestyles of backpack consumers become more and more diversified, we see a change in the shape of the backpacks,” said designer Kim. “Our new backpack brand will launch a premium line targeting men in their 30s and will also launch other bags for cameras and carry-ons as well.”
BY SHIN DO-HEE [yim.seunghye@joongang.co.kr]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
To write comments, please log in to one of the accounts.
Standards Board Policy (0/250자)