Which beef soups are best? : The differences between seolleongtang and gomtang have long confused eaters
At top is a bowl of seolleongtang and at the bottom is gomtang. The difference between the two is whether the beef soup is made with bones. [JOONGANG ILBO]
Most turn to soup, but many are confused over the difference between the two most well-known beef soups - seolleongtang and gomtang.
While the term seolleongtang has been used as the general term to indicate beef soup, there is another term for the dish that is commonly used - gomtang. Most Koreans say that they have heard and know the term, but many fail at being able to elaborate on what the difference between the two is.
The two look very similar at a quick glance, but the major difference is in ingredients used to make the broth. Seolleongtang, which has a more opaque, white color similar to that of milk, is made by boiling the meat and bones. Gomtang tends to have a clearer broth which is made only with meat and other intestines and not bones.
Since the broth is made without any additional ingredients, those who enjoy spicier broth usually add ggakduggi, a type of kimchi made with radish. Many local restaurants that serve either gomtang or selleongtang have ggakduggi and that guests can pour it onto their individual bowls upon requests.
“Adding spicy flavor can refresh the mouth if people start to taste too much grease from the beef soup,” said Hwang Gyo-ik, a local food columnist. He added that ggakduggi goes with both styles of beef soup as the type of kimchi was popular in Seoul, where the quick bowl of beef soup for a meal was popular from the end of the Joseon era (1392-1910) into the Japanese colonial rule.
“Since radish farmed in Seoul was famous for its good taste, restaurants in Seoul that served seolleongtang and gomtang served their soup with that particular type of kimchi,” said Hwang.
There are many restaurants that serve seolleongtang throughout Seoul, but if you want to try a bowl of soup from a restaurant with a decades-old recipe, look for restaurants that end with the word “-ok.”
Musuok in Dobong District has been around since the 1940s while Jaembaeok in Jung District has served the soup since the 1930s.
One of the restaurants known for gomtang is Hadonggwan, which has three branches across Seoul, including the main one in Myeongdong, central Seoul, alongside one in Coex, southern Seoul, and Yeouido in western Seoul.
One might question if people in earlier times also used the terms seolleongtang and gomtang and were aware of the clear distinction that experts now use to differentiate the two. Hong Shin-ae, owner of restaurant Salt, said no. The difference in style when making beef soup basically depended on the style each household preferred, she said. Even restaurants that have been running for decades may not have thought deeply about whether what they make is seolleongtang or gomtang.
“Since there are many places selling beef soup and the thickness of broth is different at each one, people may have felt the need to use different terms for broth that’s thicker or lighter,” she said.
“So I believe the terms gomtang and seolleongtang have developed further due to the demand from consumers who want to know whether a restaurant serves a broth that suits their tastes.”
BY LEE SUN-MIN [summerlee@joongang.co.kr]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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