[ZOOM KOREA] Textile designer makes a natural statement
The goal of this contemplative project is not necessarily for the audience to get closer to the digital world, but to awaken the individual sensations in their body and reconnect humans with their natural self.”
When the Korea JoongAng Daily met Jang Jiu at her design studio OMA Space in early June, Jang and her team were busy getting the “Tree of Light” ready for an upcoming show in Paris - the final presentation for an artist-in-residency program at Google.
In April, Jang and her OMA Space team had been chosen to participate in a highly-selective, technology-heavy residency program run by Google’s Jacquard project and Google Arts & Culture. Along with a French and a Mexican artist, OMA Space was one of three teams selected out of over 200 submissions.
For “Tree of Light,” OMA is planning to weave a large circle spanning 10 meters (32.8 feet) in diameter out of fabric. The installation will feature an innovative blend of elements taken from both tradition and Google’s Jacquard technology, which, once complete, will enable audiences to control the music and lighting with their bare feet as they walk over it.
Before running her own studio at its current home in Samcheong-dong, Jongno District, central Seoul, Jang spent many years studying textiles formally at school and casually during her travels in Korea and abroad.
Curious about textiles from a young age, Jang majored in textile design at university and spent her free time visiting local artisans in the countryside and experimenting with fabric dyes. Yet Jang felt that the subjects she studied at school were too methodical and began yearning for work with more natural and traditional elements.
In 2005, Jang went to study abroad at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, majoring in fashion and accessory design.
But Jang still felt like something was amiss, that her studies focused too heavily on design and aesthetics without fully appreciating the intentions and creators behind the clothes. Jang realized that she wanted to dig deeper into the processes that went behind making the textiles themselves. She was much more interested in discovering which plants the textiles came from and who made them. Jang was certain that having a solid foundation of such knowledge would allow her to create works of higher quality.
Since returning to Korea in 2012, Jang immersed herself in extracting ingredients from plants and other natural sources to create unique and innovative works. A trip to Laos as part of a government project in 2013 to help local craftsman was particularly influential in shaping Jang’s perception of textiles. There, Jang came face-to-face with a huge range of natural materials and advanced craftsmanship. She also saw firsthand how tradition and local artisanry were gradually disappearing.
Today, Jang only uses materials that can be found naturally in the wild. Cotton, hemp and silk from silkworm cocoons are some of the most common elements found in her works. Jang refuses to process these materials using machines, worried that they will lose their natural beauty. This means Jang only uses cotton yarns spun by hand, even if they are less smooth and polished than those spun automatically.
Because Jang only works with natural fibers and practices, one of her biggest challenges is obtaining materials. In Korea, there are no longer any wild silkworms or places that make cotton thread by hand, leaving Jang with no choice but to get some of her materials from abroad.
The lack of available resources inspired Jang to dream of setting up a local community in the future where members can engage in producing the kinds of materials that go into her works.
Jang’s dreams for such an interdependent community are reflected in the organization of OMA Space. As the head of her team, Jang conceptualizes the team’s textile, craft and design projects, while standing by her philosophy. Daniel Kapelian, originally from France, works as the art director and manages communications and music production. Designer Gil Kyoung-young is in charge of fabric development, design and placing the finishing touches on final products. Through their different roles, the team goes beyond just making garments by experimenting with other fields of contemporary art such as installations and interior design objects.
Jang says that all her works can be traced back to soil. She even goes so far as to claim that the foundation of everything is soil, and laments that people today are forgetting the most basic things in life. Jang says that just as her work helps her find her path, she hopes people who see her creations will ask themselves fundamental questions about their existence, even if just for a moment.
BY PARK SANG-MOON [moonpark@joongang.co.kr]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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