Layers with a twist at Marc Jacobs showLast week, Korean fashionistas finally got to see the live Marc Jacobs fashion show that shocked the world in January. The belated reprisal at the W Seoul Hotel came with a bit of a twist ― thanks to the creative publicist, Oh Jae-hyung, who knows what Marc Jacobs has in mind, even if he was left with a limited number of pieces from the New York sample room and with conservative Korean customers to entertain after the show.
Beginning in 2006, the New York show set the tone for the fashion world to come ― a new era of sobriety in a world stricken with daily terrorist threats, which, fashionably speaking, has put an end to the era of bare-it-all. Even under the sweltering heat of the Korean summer, trendsetters have already begun sporting the “covered-up” look: Under a thigh-grazing skirt, leggings, singlets and midriff tops were layered with long-sleeved shirts. Suddenly, baring a lot of skin has become not-so-chic.
Over the 30-meter (98-foot) runway, top models showed a collection of grunge fashion ― except, of course, for super-luxurious and expensive hand bags. When a model wore the much-photographed look, an ensemble of an oversized fox hat, a grungy plaid top and woolly leggings above a high-heeled version of Dr. Martens boots, it was as if the New York show was revisited. With a brown-black-camel colored plaid overcoat, hefty beany hats, woolly pants and long gloves, we were already in the depths of the long cold, dreary winter of Korea. It was an updated look of the designer’s Perry Ellis collection back in the early ’90s, with which he famously failed, but in times of threats and troubles by terrorists worldwide, this thermal look for the gloomy season doesn’t feel as irrelevant as before.
The look of long, dark and layered clothes shrouding the entire body from the main label was quickly followed by its younger brand, Marc by Marc Jacobs. Fans of young female fashion can relax and save money this year, as youthful military-detailed coats, preppy jackets and bermuda shorts continue to be in.
What got everyone talking was the after-show party, which turned half of Vista Hall into a Coney Island. Hidden behind a black curtain on one side of the venue were Chinese acrobats somersaulting and clowns roaming about. Fountains of candies, hamburgers, ice cream and fruit balls made everyone giddy, bringing out their inner children. Mr. Oh said he wanted to channel the kind of crazy thing Marc Jacobs might have done. “I saw pictures of him wearing a cowboy hat and everyone going wild, and I made that idea work for conservative Koreans,” he said.
by Ines Cho