[In-depth interview] Chef adds some luster to local food scene
Published: 29 Dec. 2009, 21:47
Pierre Gagnaire Michelin three-star chef
Pierre Gagnaire a Seoul, located on the 35th floor of the Lotte Hotel in central Seoul, ranks as the first Michelin-star restaurant to open in Korea. Featuring the chef’s vision of “haute cuisine,” the restaurant offers menus that deconstruct traditional European cuisine and mix in modern techniques and ingredients from all over the globe.
The 59-year-old Gagnaire, often touted as a pioneer of the fusion movement, started his career in food at the age of 18, when he worked at his father’s restaurant Le Clos Fleury in France. Later on, he opened his own restaurant in St. Etienne, which was awarded three Michelin stars in 1993. In 1997, he opened a Pierre Gagnaire restaurant in the Hotel Balzac in Paris, followed by branches in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Dubai and, now, Seoul.
This October, Gagnaire participated in a gourmet feast project called “Amazing Korean Table” organized by the Agriculture Ministry and Seoul city government, in which he and three other chefs were invited to demonstrate cooking Korean-inspired dishes.
The chef says that although Korean food is highly nutritious and has exciting flavors and textures, it is not trendy enough and at present lacks a particular sophistication needed to become a popular global cuisine. However, Gagnaire added that with efforts by future chefs here, Korean food - with its laid-back and congenial quality - has all the potential to succeed internationally.
In an recent interview with the JoongAng Daily via e-mail, the chef talked about his career, Pierre Gagnaire a Seoul and Korean cuisine.
Q. Pierre Gagnaire a Seoul is the first restaurant in Korea to be run by a Michelin-star chef. Seoul is normally not noted as one of the “food capitals” of Asia. So why did you choose Seoul and why the Lotte Hotel specifically to open your restaurant?
A. I am in Seoul because three years ago I met wonderful people from Lotte who showed a lot of respect for my work and my culture. My only goal is to bring my knowledge, my expertise and a little bit of my reputation to help Korea be known and appreciated outside its borders.
I was happy during this trip to come with many high-profile food critics from all over the world who were very amazed by Korean cuisine. I am delighted as well with the praise of critics over my restaurant and the menu, “Seoul Homage,” that we developed around Korean ingredients.
(Seoul Homage is a course menu developed by Gagnaire for his restaurant in Seoul that was offered in October. The course included menu items such as soybean paste beef and Korean garlic and cheese dishes.)
How has the reception been for Pierre Gagnaire a Seoul compared to your other restaurants in Asia? In your opinion, how has Korea responded to your restaurant?
We opened the restaurant at the beginning of the financial crisis, which was not the ideal timing! But I have a feeling that the quality of the place has attracted a lot of people. We offer a lunch at a very affordable price and people can have a really great experience. The “business lunch” in gastronomic restaurants here are not as common as in London but it will come with time. Something I observed in all my restaurants, including in Seoul, is that the women are the ones who usually enjoy the delicate style of my cuisine the most.
You recently participated in Amazing Korean Table. What was that experience like for you?
It was a very interesting experience because I met several generations of Korean chefs who are so eager to learn from others. They showed their will to protect Korean culture but in a very positive way, as they are willing to let it evolve.
How would you describe Korean food in general?
The strengths of Korean cuisine are its conviviality, its simplicity - which is good in terms of health - and its affordable price. For the same reasons you can find its weaknesses: a lack of singularity, of stylishness, a lack of delicacy in terms of tastes.
Do you think Korean food can succeed on a global scale and be a popular cuisine for the rest of the world? In order for Korean food to globalize, what should be done?
Korean cuisine has a lot going for itself to become popular, but of course it can only become popular through the quality of the men and women who will decide to become chefs. Government and companies will be able to help, but what we need is talent.
Compared to other Asian cuisines, what are the unique characteristics of Korean cuisine?
The characteristics of Korean cuisine are very identifiable. The menu choice is not very large, but again, it is very convivial, warmhearted and easily exportable.
Your mission statement on your Web site is “facing the future but respectful of the past.” Can you tell me specifically what you mean by this? How has your philosophy to cooking and food evolved over the years?
My philosophy to cooking hasn’t changed over the years. My motto is to be able to offer a moment of pleasure, of elegance and of simplicity.
Who were your favorite chefs when you were younger?
My heroes are Alain Chapel and Fredy Girardet.
What are the most important factors you consider when cooking and inventing menus?
To create dishes that are very close to the culinary truth of the country while respecting the environment in which these dishes are produced.
The price tag at your restaurant in Seoul is quite high for the average Korean citizen. Do you have any plans to open a more casual restaurant?
For the time being, we are very focused on the restaurant. I am confident that it will find its place in Korea. My restaurant in London opened eight years ago and it took nearly five years for it to be recognized as an important place in London. I am delighted to see that we were elected best restaurant in Korea by the Miele Guide - this reflects the high-quality work done by the Korean and French staff of the Pierre Gagnaire restaurant.
By Cho Jae-eun [[email protected]]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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