[WHY] The Han River's journey from laundry and fishing to Seoul's stress reliever

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Published: 29 Oct. 2022, 07:00 Updated: 31 Oct. 2022, 19:05

[WHY] The Han River's journey from laundry and fishing to Seoul's stress reliever

BTS's RM sits by the Han River during the boy band's two-month vacation in August 2019. [SCREEN CAPTURE]

The recent news of figure skater Kim Yuna's marriage was enough to make headlines on its own, but one thing that caught the eye of the Korean press in particular was the newlywed’s new home — a luxury apartment with a view of the Han River.

Why is their apartment such a big deal? Because living somewhere with a view of the Han River is considered the very symbol of wealth and success in Korea.

House prices tell a very clear story. An apartment in the Mark Hills complex in southern Seoul’s Heukseok-dong recently traded at around 8.5 billion won ($6.0 million), ten times the price of an average home in Seoul.

The jaw-dropping price tag is not only because it’s a 240 square-meter unit and close to major neighborhoods in Gangnam, but because it has a direct view of the Han River and Nodeul Island.

The Han River is not only known for its pricy apartments and expansive views, but also as a popular destination for Seoulites looking to take a break from their busy city life.

“I go to the Han River at least once every two weeks,” said a 25-year-old office worker surnamed Lee in Gangnam District, southern Seoul.

“I usually go to the riverside with my friends to run after work and often go there to have chimaek [fried chicken and beer].”

The Han River, which is regularly featured in various Korean music videos, films and dramas, is seen as one of the perfect hangout spots in Korea, where people gather to enjoy delivery food, take a walk and chill outside with the river as a backdrop.

In 2021, a total of 57 million people visited the river, according to the Hangang River Business Department’s public data under the Seoul Metropolitan Government. But how did the Han River become such a crucial part of Seoul's culture in such a large, sprawling city?

Why is a Han River view a symbol of success?

Simply put, people believe that having a Han River view means your apartment is well positioned in terms of transportation and infrastructure, positioned in one of the more popular parts of the city and has a nice, relaxing view of the river — a view that is a big deal in a city where so many people's windows look out on to the walls of the next apartment building.

It is no exaggeration to say that houses located by the Han River are among the most expensive residences in Seoul.

Hanwha Galleria Foret, left, and Acro Seoul Forest Complex stand by the river in Seongsu-dong, eastern Seoul. [JOONGANG ILBO]

The 264-square-meter penthouse of Acro Seoul Forest Complex located in Seongsu-dong, eastern Seoul — known for its clear view of the Han River — sold for 13 billion won in September. The price, in fact, doubled over the course of five years, from 6.05 billion won in 2017. Korean celebrities, such as actor Lee Je-hoon and actor couple Joo Sang-wook and Cha Ye-ryun, are known to have purchased apartments there.

Another apartment famous for its location by the Han River and its price is the Banpo Jugong 1 Danji Apartments in Banpo, Seocho District, southern Seoul. A 140-square-meter apartment there sold at 7.3 billion won in September, according to Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport data.

The apartment complex, which was constructed in 1973, is currently waiting to be reconstructed. A unit there was purchased by Jimin of BTS back in 2018.

“People’s focus has shifted to the quality of housing, such as the view, these days,” said Lee Chung-kee, an architecture professor at the University of Seoul. “The location of houses along the Han River is also very good as transportation is efficient.”

In fact, residents say that the view and location are the two reasons it's worth living in a riverside home.

“I enjoy watching the view from my house, especially when there is an event or festival taking place across the river since I can take a sneak peek,” said a 29-year-old office worker living in an apartment by the Han River in Gwangjin District, eastern Seoul.

“I can also go to Cheongdam-dong and Apgujeong-dong by just crossing a bridge.”

Apart from the convenient location and the relaxing view, the fact that it is physically close to the parks located along the Han River is another big perk.

“I go to Hangang Park every other day to run, walk and relieve stress,” said a 20-year-old student who lives in an apartment by the Han River with her parents. “There are so many people who just walk or cycle along the river every time I go out at night.”

Kim Yuna is not the only celebrity to enjoy a Han River view. Well-known stars often flaunt the view from their homes on television or social media.

Key, a member of boy band SHINee, is one of them.

Key revealed that his house is located in one of the richest neighborhoods in Korea, Hannam-dong in central Seoul, on MBC’s popular reality show “I Live Alone” last year. His house, which has a wide view of the Han River from his living room, is known to be one of the luxurious units in the UN Village, selling for as much as 13.5 billion won last April.

The Han River view seen from boy band SHINee's Key's house in Hannam-dong, central Seoul. [SCREEN CAPTURE]

Key is not the only celebrity living in the village. Suga of BTS and Baekhyun of boy band Exo are among his neighbors, while singer IU, BTS’s V, Taeyeon of Girls’ Generation and hundreds of other celebrities have Han River views of their own in other parts of the city.

What about the people who don’t live by the river?

For people who don't have a Han River view, the parks that span both sides of the river are still a great place to hang out with friends or family.

The river currently has a total of 11 parks in Seoul: The Nanji, Gangseo, Yangwha, Mangwon, Yeouido, Ichon, Banpo, Jamwon, Ttukseom, Jamsil and Gwangnaru Hangang Parks.

People mostly come to these parks to enjoy delivery food, exercise, have picnics and enjoy the view.

The parks have the same basic setup: A wide grass area for people to bring tents and picnic mats to relax, with cycle paths running alongside the river.

There are even special food delivery zones for picnickers without a packed lunch.

People stand around a delivery zone to pick up their food in Yeuouido Hangang Park on May 2, 2021. [NEWS1]

The Ttukseom Hangang Park in Gwangjin District, eastern Seoul, and the Yeouido Hangang Park in western Seoul are the two parks that have these special zones. People can meet the delivery drivers at the zone without needing to go through the hassle of explaining to the driver what part of the park they are sat in.

But while takeout food is always popular, the one thing everybody eats by the river is ramyeon. Convenience stores in the parks have special machines that cook ramyeon for hungry customers, making it by far the easiest way to get a hot, riverside snack.

The International Fireworks Festival was held on Oct. 8. [NEWS1]

The International Fireworks Festival attracted around 1.2 million people to the Yeouido Hangang Park area on Oct. 8. [YONHAP]

Festivals, such as the cherry blossom festival in spring and the International Fireworks Festival in the fall, all take place in the Hangang Parks.

The International Fireworks Festival, which took place around Yeouido Hangang Park on Oct. 8, attracted around 1.2 million people to the area. The park is also known for having the Water Light Square, Waterside Fountains and the Waterside Stage. The Water Light Square, which is directly connected to the waterfront, is an area where people can enjoy the river view.

The cycle and walking tracks that run along the Han River cycle are another attraction that brings many Seoulites to the parks.

People cycle around Banpo Hangang Park on July 6. [NEWS1]

Visitors can easily rent a ttareungi bike to cycle alongside the river and some parks, such as the Ttukseom and Ichon Hangang Park, offer regular bike rental shops as well.

What else can you do by the river?

Like Nodeul Island that Kim Yuna has a view of, there are various attractions that have been set up to entertain the thousands of visitors that flock to the river every day.

The Banpo Moonlight Rainbow Fountain in Banpo Hangang Park [YONHAP]

The Banpo Moonlight Rainbow Fountain in Banpo Hangang Park is perhaps the most famous attraction along the river.

The fountain, the longest bridge fountain in the world according to the Guinness Book of Records in 2008, spans 1,140 meters and pours out 190 tons of water every 20 minutes from the sides of the bridge, timing the fountain with music and different colored lights.

The Banpo Moonlight Rainbow Fountain was the star attraction of the Han River Renaissance Project, a revival project for the Han river, led by Seoul Mayor Oh Se-hoon during his first term in office in 2006.

The Banpo Hangang Park is also famous for having the Sevit Islands, or the Some Sevit, an artificial floating island that has stage facilities and a media art gallery. The islands, which were created after being suggested by a Seoul citizen, appeared in “The Avengers: Age of Ultron" in 2015.

The Hangang Parks are also convenient to access, with extensive parking available along the river. Some citizens of the city looking for a break without the time to trek to the countryside will even park up by the river and then surreptitiously sleep in their cars, a sort of guerilla camping that has been growing in popularity since the outbreak of the Covid-19 pandemic.

A total of 7,163 cars can be parked in the 11 parks that span the river, with the Yeuouido Hangang Park having the highest capacity, at 1,791 cars.

Many residents living near the river are also spotted in the area as there are many sports facilities including simple workout areas, a soccer field, basketball courts and a pool.

Other sports, such as water activities like water skiing and wakeboards, can also be done at the Jamwon, Yangwha, Nanji, Yeouido and Ichon Hangang Parks.

People watch the sunset from a yacht on the Han River on Nov. 12, 2020. [JOONGANG ILBO]

Was the river always this popular?

Unfortunately, no.

The history of the river has some very dark chapters, including the tragic bombing of the Han River Bridge on June 28, 1950. The bridge, back then, was the only connection between northern and southern Seoul, and was destroyed to prevent North Korean forces from easily crossing the river.

No specific count exists, but estimates put the death toll from the explosion at between 200 to 800 people.

The bombing of the bridge wasn't the only time death visited the Han River.

A total of 598 people attempted to commit suicide on bridges over the Han River in the first half of this year, according to the National Fire Agency’s data. A total of 59 people died from those attempts, twice the number that died from car accidents in the same period.

Of the 21 bridges in Seoul, the Mapo Bridge sees the most people attempting to commit suicide.

The city government installed fences and set up LED message panels along the walls of the bridge in 2013. Messages like “how was your day?” and “it’s going to be ok” are written on the panels. These messages have had little effect and were eventually taken down in 2019.

The number of rescues required in the area increased from 391 in 2018 to 584 in 2020.

An LED panel with the message "look at the blue sky" is seen on Mapo Bridge on Sept. 10, 2018. [NEWS1]

Tragic accidents take place as well. In April last year, a story involving twenty-one-year-old Sohn Jeong-min, who was found dead in the river after drinking heavily with a friend late at night, made the headlines across Korea.

What about its history?

Historically, the river is often associated with the underdog-becomes-champion story of the Korean economy — known as the “Miracle on the Han River.”

The Han River, or Hangang, flows directly through the middle of the city of Seoul and is the fourth longest river in Korea t 41.5 kilometers (136,154 feet) long. Its source is in the mountains of Gangwon, and the river flows into the West Sea at the North Korean border.

Compared to popular rivers in other countries that flow through big cities, such as the Thames in London and the Seine in Paris, the Han is almost five times wider, with the walk across as long as 1 kilometer in some places.

But, as opposed to the glamorous look and the convenient facilities of the river we see nowadays, the Han has only recently become a place where people want to spend any time.

Until the early 1960s, the river banks were white sandy beaches used for cleaning laundry and fishing.

“The development of facilities around Hangang began to be centered on water utilization ahead of the Seoul Olympics in 1988,” said Emeritus Professor Lee Yeon-taek from Hanyang University’s Department of Tourism.

Hosting the Seoul Asian Games in 1986 and the Seoul Olympics in 1988 was a trigger for the government to create and promote a development project for the Han River.

The four-year development project, named the Hangang River Development Project, cost 965 billion won ($678 million) and was completed just two weeks before the Asian Games, according to the National Archives of Korea.

During the four years from 1982 to 1986, the government focused on constructing facilities, such as the Hangang Parks, and improving water quality.

The Olympic-daero seen on Sept. 6 [JOONGANG ILBO]

This is also when the Olympic-daero and Gangbyeonbuk-ro highways that run parallel to the river were constructed. The banks of the river were also built up to allow people to enjoy water sports and ferry cruises, and levees were constructed to make the river follow a set path.

The width of the river was also set at this time, using weirs to ensure it maintains a largely uniform shape as it runs through the city.

Are there any new projects taking place along the river?

Yes. In fact, the Seoul city government is adamant that the river has the capacity to be a bigger destination.

In early August, the Seoul city government announced a project called the Great Sunset Han River, part two of the Han River Renaissance Project that aims to attract 30 million foreign tourists to Seoul.

The project includes building the world’s tallest Ferris wheel, tentatively named the Seoul Eye. Waterfront stages like The Float at Marina Bay in Singapore, where K-pop artists such as BTS and Blackpink are expected to perform, are also planned.

“There hasn’t been a typical tour spot in Korea previously, the main reason why the Han River Renaissance Project was initiated,” said Choi Won-cheol, a professor at Hanyang University who was in charge of the Sevit Island project.

“If we have a definitive landmark like Sydney’s Opera House in the future, we will be able to attract more tourists from abroad.

“Korea already has globally top performers, such as singer Psy and boy band BTS. If these grand-scale performances could be done at the Han River, the project will help to foster the future tourism industry by bringing in citizens and international tourists."

The Sevit Island is lit in the colors of the Ukraine national flag on Feb. 27. [YONHAP]

Others see the future of the Han River very differently.

“Constructing more facilities does not necessarily mean that more people will use the space more often,” said Lee from the University of Seoul.

“People bring their own camping chairs to the Hangang Park and spend time there over the weekend. But there is a need to actively think about how to use the space for citizens and we should take advantage of the Han River because it is located in a city.“

Whether or not the Han River will actually get the world’s tallest Ferris Wheel, it will inevitably remain one of the only places for Koreans to get away from their busy city life.

“Just walking along the Han River helps me relieve stress,” said a 20-year-old student living in Jamwon-dong, southern Seoul.

“Going on a picnic with friends by the river and just seeing the green in the Hangang Parks will always be my hobby.”

BY CHO JUNG-WOO, YOON SO-YEON [cho.jungwoo1@joongang.co.kr]