The spirit of Jeju: An island of gods and heritage

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The spirit of Jeju: An island of gods and heritage

Published: 26 Nov. 2024, 17:12 Updated: 02 Dec. 2024, 16:50

Geoumun oreum is one of 360 volcanic cones scattered over Jeju. [VISIT JEJU]

Jeju Island has been selected as the location for the first-ever Visit Korean Heritage Year.

Under the new Framework Act on National Heritage enacted in May 2024, the term for "cultural property" and the name of the "Cultural Property Administration" were changed to "national heritage" and the "National Heritage Administration," respectively, along with adjusted categories for tangible and intangible heritage. As cultural properties were reclassified as national heritage, the management paradigm has also shifted from a focus on preservation and regulation to promoting Korea's national heritage and generating future value.

The Visit Korean Heritage Year is the first-ever initiative of the National Heritage Administration toward this ideal, and the Jeju Special Self-governing Province will lead this change as the first location for the project. The celebratory announcement for the 2025 Visit Jeju Heritage Year was made at the Jejumok Gwana Government Office on Oct. 19.

It is no coincidence that Jeju, an island home to a host of national heritage sites, was the first choice for the nationwide project. Nicknamed the "Volcanic Museum," Jeju's territory boasts a diverse and unique array of volcanic landforms.

There are around 360 oreum — the Jeju word for volcanic cones — of all sizes, while approximately 160 lava tubes dwell underground. With its rich biodiversity, the island was classified as a Biosphere Reserve by Unesco in February 2002 and recognized as a Natural World Heritage site in July 2007 for its awe-inspiring natural landscape.

Acknowledging the island's diversity of volcanic formations and geological resources, Jeju was also designated as a Global Geopark by Unesco in October 2010.

Jeju is also home to various culturally significant artifacts and intangible heritage, including a unique creation myth and legends depicting over 18,000 gods living among the islanders, establishing Jeju's identity as the "Island of Gods."

As the official testing ground for the Visit Korean Heritage Year project, the Jeju Special Self-governing Province is preparing for tourists from around the world to experience the age-old values embedded in Jeju's national heritage as well as the future value of the Jeju of today.

The Special Self-governing Province has planned four different tours connecting national heritage with Jeju's myths and legends. One of the tours, "Ask the Goddess," was unveiled at the celebratory announcement and completed a successful trial run from Oct. 19 to 26.

The 'Ask the Goddess' Tour

Imagine that the gods of Jeju — all 18,000 of them — disappeared from the island. This is where the first story tour begins.

The Jeju Chilmeoridang Yeongdeunggut honors the yearly visit of Grandma Yeondeung. [CHILMEORIDANG YEONGDEUNGGUT CENTER]

Singugan, literally meaning a period between the new and old, is a folk custom unique to Jeju, practiced five days after Daehan, meaning "great cold," and three days before Ipchun, the onset of spring. It is believed that during this period, the gods who have finished their time on earth return to the heavens to later be replaced by gods with new missions, leaving no gods on the island. Thus, Singugan was considered an opportunity to engage in activities normally prohibited for fear of the gods, such as moving or house repairs — a concept that still holds meaning to the locals today.

The story "Where Are the Gods?" introduces many deities, from the Outhouse God who failed to ascend during Singugan, Seolmundae who lost the key to heaven's door, and other gods like Baekjuto and Yeongdeung. The Heritage Tour Course 1: Ask the Goddess brings this story to life with three different courses starting at the Jeju Chilmeoridang Yeongdeunggut Center and moving to either Songdang Bonhyangdang to meet the goddess Baekjuto, Darangswi Oreum to admire the work of the goddess Grandma Seolmundae, or the Seoungeup Folk Village, where one can imagine the Outhouse God roaming the streets.

The Jeju Chilmeoridang Yeongdeunggut is a national intangible heritage that was also listed as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by Unesco in 2009. It is a ritual held in the second lunar month honoring the yearly visit of the goddess of the winds — Grandma Yeongdeung. The starting point of the "Ask the Goddess" tour is the Jeju Chilmeoridang Yeongdeunggut Center, where shamans are taught the ritual to preserve the practice, and visitors can find exhibitions and performances for a better understanding of the overall shamanistic culture of Jeju.

Course A leads to Songdang Bonhyangdang, a shrine honoring the goddess of agriculture, Baekjuto. Mother to the Dang god, who created numerous other gods, Baekjuto has inspired many women to lead independent lives. After an encounter with a goddess who paved her own destiny, the course ends with a walk along the Dang Oreum trail.

The Seoungeup Folk Village with the traditional houses of Jeju [VISIT JEJU]

Course B follows the traces of Grandma Seolmundae, a goddess whose mark is found all over Jeju's land and legends. A playful giant, her shoveling is said to have created Halla Mountain and the numerous oreum of Jeju. Explorers are led to the volcanic crater of Darangshi Oreum, also known as the Grandma Seolmundae Volcanic Crater. According to legend, among all the oreum she made, Seolmundae thought the Darangshi Oreum was too pointy, so she flattened it with her fist, creating the crater on top.

Jeju's traditional houses are built to withstand the island's strong winds and other natural elements, and it is believed that gods inhabit every corner. Some well-known gods include the Outhouse God, who guarded the Tongsi — the Jeju word for the outhouse, the Kitchen God Jowangshin and Munjeonshin, who guards the house's entryway. Following Course C, one may think of the Outhouse God from "Where Are the Gods?" at the Seongeup Folk Village, visiting the traditional straw houses of Jeju, Go Chang-hwan's Historic House and Han Bong-il's Historic House.

The legend of the blue fish tour

The second tour takes place in a cave formed over 1.8 million years ago. The main character, Yongcheon, is an unknown fish who travels from Gimnyeonggul and Manjanggul Lava Tubes, Seongsan Ilchulbong, Sanbangsan, to Yongmeori Coast, exploring the shores of Jeju in search of his identity. The Heritage Tour Course 2 is inspired by Yongcheon's adventures and can be enjoyed over one or two days. Walking along the Unesco-approved Geo Trail Course, one cannot help but imagine the little blue fish exploring Jeju Island, ultimately transforming into a dragon.

A heritage run through Jeju's history

Legend says the founding demigods of Jeju emerged at Samseonghyeol, Korea’s oldest known historical site. [VISIT JEJU]

The Daejeong-eup area is the site of Jeju's hardships and painful modern history, from Japanese imperialism to the April 3 incident. The Heritage Tour Course 3: Heritage Run is the third story-themed tour, where tourists can jog along the coastline, immersing themselves in Jeju's natural beauty and history. The Modern History/Dark Tourism route passes the South Jeju Gwangnyeong'd Church, Alddreu Airfield, Seotal Oreum and Pacific Rim Park, while the Jeju Scenic Nature route runs through Pacific Rim Park, Songak Mountain and Sagye Beach.

Finally, the Heritage Tour Course 4: Treasure Hunter offers an easy, fun way to explore Jeju's city center, where tradition meets modernity. Starting at Gwandeokjeong Pavilion, a designated national treasure, the course passes the Ohyeondan Altar and leads to Samseonghyeol — Korea's oldest known historical site. The tale recounts that around 4,300 years ago, three demigods, Go, Yang and Bu, emerged from three holes in the ground and became the first inhabitants of the island.

The celebratory announcement for the 2025 Visit Jeju Heritage Year was held on Oct.19. [JEJU SPECIAL SELF-GOVERNING PROVINCE]

Moving on from Samseonghyeol and the Jeju Folklore and Natural History Museum, visitors will arrive at Dongmun Market, the largest traditional market in Jeju, known for its rich history and diverse offerings. The Sanjicheon Buksugu Square features old bookstores, quaint cafes and restaurants, and an art gallery showcasing local artists' works. The final stop is the Kim Man-duk Memorial Hall, commemorating the famed female Korean merchant of the Joseon era, who used her wealth to donate rice from the mainland during a famine, saving the people of Jeju.

The Jeju Special Self-governing Province is planning other events to maximize the impact of the 2025 Visit Jeju Heritage Year. One such event is an interactive application accompanying the "Ask the Goddess" tour. "Where Are the Gods?" tells the story of each location, enhancing the experience with an immersive narrative. The app also includes an adventure component, where visitors can help the gods return to Jeju by finding a lost key, becoming the story's main character. The application is expected to be completed within the year and available to visitors in 2025.

Visit jejuheritage.kr and visitjeju.net for more details on 2025 events. Discover the stories and cultural value of Korea's premier tourist destination and see a different side of Jeju.

Featured Article by the Jeju Tourism Organization and the Korea Joongang Daily

BY KIM YEONSOO [[email protected]]

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