[WHY] Fashion meets function: Why Koreans can't let go of the long padded jacket

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[WHY] Fashion meets function: Why Koreans can't let go of the long padded jacket

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI


Students wearing long padded jackets participate in a culture event held in Daegu on Nov. 21, 2018. [NEWS1]

Students wearing long padded jackets participate in a culture event held in Daegu on Nov. 21, 2018. [NEWS1]

 
On Wednesday morning, Korea transformed into a winter wonderland as a sudden storm blanketed the nation. It brought the heaviest November snowfall since modern meteorological observations began in 1907, with the capital seeing over 20 centimeters (7.8 inches) of accumulated snow and some areas reaching over 40 centimeters.  
 
As temperatures plunged to near freezing and the first snow of the year arrived, the event marked the return of a familiar seasonal wardrobe choice for Koreans: long padded jackets.
 

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These coats, stretching from the neck to the knees, become a daily sight on the streets of Korea, signaling the arrival of winter. Local news outlets rush to spotlight bundled-up commuters, mostly clad in black long padded jackets, hurrying to work or other destinations — a sign that the cold has truly set in.
 
Originally designed as a bulky, knee-length athlete’s coat, the long padded jacket has transcended its sportswear roots. It’s now a so-called staple in the wardrobes of Koreans of all ages, genders and occupations, firmly established as a go-to piece of casual winter clothing.
 
It has also been highlighted as an item foreigners are tempted to purchase when visiting Korea.  
 
An episode of MBC every1’s “Welcome, First Time in Korea?” (2017- ), aired in February 2020, showed the reactions of three Danish friends who saw streets filled with people in long padded jackets, saying, “There is no one not wearing a long puffer jacket.”
 
A scene from an episode of MBC every1’s “Welcome, First Time in Korea?” (2017- ), aired in February 2020 [SCREEN CAPTURE]

A scene from an episode of MBC every1’s “Welcome, First Time in Korea?” (2017- ), aired in February 2020 [SCREEN CAPTURE]

 
The show also featured them shopping for the item and enjoying their new clothes, with one remarking that it is “lighter than his coat.”
 
Though some say the trend has shifted to short puffer jackets since last year, it is a common sight to see streets filled with long padded jacket owners. The jackets, some say, make people look like gimbap (seaweed rice roll) when bundled up snugly in their outfits.
 
Why do Koreans, known for staying up with the latest trends, show such an attachment to this fashion item? Is it simply just to stay warm?
 
 
Warm and cozy
 
Many stated they chose long puffer jackets to “survive” Korea’s piercing cold weather.  
 
People wearing long padded jackets walk a street in Jongno District, central Seoul, on Jan. 22. [NEWS1]

People wearing long padded jackets walk a street in Jongno District, central Seoul, on Jan. 22. [NEWS1]

 
“It’s a survival item for warmth,” Kang Pil-sung, a 28-year-old living in Seoul, said. “To be honest, I’m not sure if it’s stylish, but when it’s bitterly cold out, I have no choice but to wear it. It’s better to be warm than freeze to death.”
 
Even foreigners in Korea admit it's hard to let go of the cozy and warm wardrobe item.  
 
Mehtap Oezkan, also known as @mehtapisme on social media, is a foreign social media influencer based in Korea. In one of her TikTok posts in December last year, she talked about her love for the jacket in the video's description box.  
 
“People are saying that long puffer jackets aren’t in trend anymore and look silly and we should wear short puffer jackets instead,” she wrote. “However, long puffer jackets literally keep my legs warm and I will not switch to a shorter one when it’s minus degrees outside.”
 
The country's blistering cold does play a role in both Koreans and foreigners in Korea gravitating toward the long padded jacket. But how did the trend begin?
 
 
Introduction of long padded jackets
 
The long padded jacket is not a new fashion style to Koreans, as it was known to be first introduced to the public in 1994 in MBC’s basketball series “Final Jump,” which starred actors Jang Dong-gun, Son Ji-chang and Shin Eun-Kyung.  
 
At the time, the coats were often referred to as “basketball jackets” or “bench coats” rather than long padded jackets. Also, they were not as thickly padded with goose down as they are today. Most of them featured a thinner padding and a shiny textured fabric.
 
A scene from MBC's 1994 basketball drama ″Final Jump″ [SCREEN CAPTURE]

A scene from MBC's 1994 basketball drama ″Final Jump″ [SCREEN CAPTURE]

 
Over time, this padded style evolved into a thicker, feather-filled design, gaining significant popularity in the 2010s.
 
“I remember celebrities and my school’s performing arts and media students wearing long padded jackets,” Gong Ye-jin, 28, said, who says she is a “long padded jacket enthusiast.”
 
“At that time, I thought those styles were only for celebrities, so I didn’t consider myself wearing one,” she said. “But now, I can’t imagine living without it in the winter.”
 
Before the craze for long padded jackets began, the style was commonly associated with actors and idols, who wore them to stay warm while waiting on set or traveling between schedules.
 
Korea's Lee Kang-in, center, watches a 2026 World Cup qualifier match against Thailand at Seoul World Cup Stadium in western Seoul on March. 21. [YONHAP]

Korea's Lee Kang-in, center, watches a 2026 World Cup qualifier match against Thailand at Seoul World Cup Stadium in western Seoul on March. 21. [YONHAP]

 
This athlete-slash-celebrity style gradually made its way into mainstream fashion, becoming popular among college students and even younger audiences in high school and middle school. As a result, long padded jackets came to be known as a “uniform” for students.
 
 
Reaching its peak
 
The long padded jacket craze reached its peak in 2017, particularly in the lead-up to the PyeongChang 2018 Winter Olympics.
 
Team Korea enters Pyeongchang Olympic Stadium during the PyeongChang 2018 Winter Olympics opening ceremony held in Gangwon on Feb. 9, 2018. [YONHAP]

Team Korea enters Pyeongchang Olympic Stadium during the PyeongChang 2018 Winter Olympics opening ceremony held in Gangwon on Feb. 9, 2018. [YONHAP]

 
The Winter Olympics launched its official souvenir long padded jacket, which fueled Korea’s craze for long padded coats. Priced at 149,000 won ($106), the jacket was nearly half the price of most retail long padded jackets, which typically ranged from 300,000 to 400,000 won. People lined up outside stores around the country to get their hands on this affordable winter item.
 
Another boost to the widespread popularity of long padded jackets came from Koreans’ general fondness for padded outerwear, driven by a fashion shift, according to Lee Dong-Hyun, the CEO of FCL Korea and a fashion critic.
 
“In the 1990s and early 2000s, there was a mix of wool coats and padded jackets in popularity,” Lee said to the Korea JoongAng Daily. “However, padded jackets truly gained significance as outdoor wear began to rise.”
 
People wait in line outside the Lotte Department Store in Jung District, central Seoul, to buy the PyeongChang 2018 Winter Olympics' special edition long padded jacket on Nov. 18, 2017. [YONHAP]

People wait in line outside the Lotte Department Store in Jung District, central Seoul, to buy the PyeongChang 2018 Winter Olympics' special edition long padded jacket on Nov. 18, 2017. [YONHAP]

 
The fashion critic highlighted a social shift in clothing choices as the main reason for the introduction of padded outerwear into the Korean market, a trend that continues to this day.
 
“In the past, clothing was not as sporty as it is today. It had a more formal feel,” he said. “During the past 10 years, sportswear started to gain significant popularity and the category became more diversified.”
 
“The reason behind padded jackets taking off in popularity derives from the socially broad, sporty concept,” he added. “This social shift has caused people to wear more sporty or casual styles, which is why I believe padded jackets have become more noticeable.”
 
 
With this shift as an additional catalyst, long padded jackets became a cultural “uniform,” as a survey conducted by online research company PMI showed that four out of 10 people had a long padded jacket.
 
 
Judgment among peers
 
Along with its popularity, negative influences also appeared, particularly among young people.  
 
Students, especially those in middle school and high school, were eager to get their hands on these expensive jackets as a part of the social phenomenon.
 
It was reported that students started to divide and rank each other based on their jacket’s brand. Due to this, students began requesting more expensive items from their parents, becoming a cost burden for families.
 
Students wearing long padded jackets walk down a street in Daegu on Nov. 20, 2018. [NEWS1]

Students wearing long padded jackets walk down a street in Daegu on Nov. 20, 2018. [NEWS1]

 
The social image of long padded jackets and the conflict associated with it somewhat degraded its glory, having some impact on regular customers.
 
“For me, personally, it has rather developed an image more like something students would wear,” Lee Ji-soo, a 30-year-old woman living in Dongjak District, southern Seoul, said. “Since around last year, short padded jackets and mid-length coats have become trendy. So, I don’t reach for long padded jackets as much as I did in the past.”


A survival item
 
Its glory may have diminished in some way, but it is true that the jackets have practical use, as they are warm and cover most of the body. This gives many Koreans a good reason to choose them for their daily outfits.
 
Even the long length is preferred by outdoor brand Colombia, based on its instructions on how to wear a puffer jacket, saying, “Longer jackets are recommended if you plan to face severe cold weather conditions.”  
 
Following this rule, it is preferred to wear jackets of long lengths to survive the severe cold of Korean weather.  
 
 
“Foreigners often say that all long padded jackets in Korea look the same, making them feel lacking in individuality,” a YouTube comment said under an episode clip from “Welcome, First Time in Korea?”
 
“We should make them wear only coats to truly experience the Korean winter. That way, they'll realize, ‘Ah... this isn't fashion, it's a survival item,’” said the comment.
 
A Korean couple who lives in the United States also shared their experience of buying a long padded jacket after entering Korea. 
 
“I visited Korea early this year, not knowing how cold Korea’s weather would be,” Song, 33, who asked for anonymity, said. “My fiancé and I thought a lightweight, thin, down jacket would be enough. But we were wrong, as we continuously clenched our teeth and kept shaking from the cold.”
 

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As such, the industry also recognizes the positioning of long padded jackets, referring to it as a “survival item rather than a fashion statement,” according to e-commerce fashion and beauty platform Musinsa.
 
“Since long padded jackets are worn daily throughout the winter, consumers tend to prefer simple, understated designs and colors, leading to longer purchase cycles and less trend-driven buying behavior,” it said.  


Simple and handy
 
However, for Koreans, a long padded jacket is not just simply worn for its functionality but also as a handy fashion item.  
 
Girl group IVE's Jang Won-young poses for a photo wearing outdoor brand Eider's long padded jacket at a popup store in Jung District, central Seoul, on Nov. 24. [NEWS1]

Girl group IVE's Jang Won-young poses for a photo wearing outdoor brand Eider's long padded jacket at a popup store in Jung District, central Seoul, on Nov. 24. [NEWS1]

 
“Honestly, in winter, I just want to throw anything on inside,” Lee Eu-gene, 29, said, adding that her office is too warm compared to the harsh cold weather outside. “Long padded jackets are just perfect to wear on top of a lightweight layer of clothes.”  
 
She added that the long puffer jacket is an item that helps “solve her laziness.”
 
“I don't want to overthink what I should wear when I'm just going out for a stroll or grabbing something from the store nearby. Life is tiring enough, and long puffer jackets just tick all the boxes when I feel like that.”
 
For some, the long padded jackets help to both stay warm and maintain a formal look, especially if it's black.  
 
“I usually gravitate to my long black padded jacket instead of my short one when I have to attend an occasion that requires formality,” Kim Hee-sung, who works at a research center near Konkuk University in eastern Seoul, said, “like when I attend a funeral, a wedding celebration or an important meeting.”
 
 
Beyond the basics
 
Though many say that the trend of long padded jackets has faded and is seen as less of a fashion statement, it doesn’t mean that trendy Koreans will lose their edge when purchasing one.  
 
“In the past, I think I focused more on functionality, but now I also consider the brand and design, or perhaps I should say, even more,” Lee Eu-gene said.  
 
The fashion industry is responding to this demand by continuing to release long padded jackets, but with twists and variations, moving beyond the traditional sportswear style.
 
A long padded jacket from outdoor brand Discovery Expedition [DISCOVERY EXPEDITION]

A long padded jacket from outdoor brand Discovery Expedition [DISCOVERY EXPEDITION]

 
Discovery Expedition, one of the leading long padded jacket brands in Korea, said to the Korea JoongAng Daily that this year’s fall/winter collection considers both functionality and design.
 
“We introduced a long puffer jacket that incorporates outdoor-based functional materials with a three-dimensional silhouette,” the brand said. “Tailored to the lifestyles of consumers who value both style and functionality, we aim to offer premium outdoor wear, blending performance and fashion.”
 
Fashion platform Musinsa also saw the shift in focus toward design, saying, “The fashion industry continues to introduce new long puffer jackets each year by varying the silhouette, details and materials.”  
 

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“Some feature casual toggle buttons for added flair, while others offer minimalist designs that can be styled formally like a coat. These long puffer jackets are designed with diverse customer preferences and needs in mind, ensuring there’s something for everyone,” it added.


'Home of long padded jackets'
 
Although the industry recognizes the steady demand for long padded jackets, some argue that it's too early to call them a Korean staple, especially given the current popularity of short puffers in the country.
 
Fashion critic Lee said that the long padded jacket was just in the "fashion cycle” phase, cautioning against calling it a staple and advising to watch for its long-term presence.
 
On the other hand, the fashion industry sees Korea as a leading group when it comes to the long padded design.
 
“With the highly active domestic outdoor market, which has reached up to a scale of 6 trillion won, brands are continuously competing to differentiate and evolve, considering high functionality, design and branding,” Musinsa said. “This is believed to have contributed to Korea becoming the ‘home of long padded jackets.’”
 
Like so, when the piercing cold strikes, it is hard to deny that a long padded jacket has become a go-to item for many people, as they have already experienced its coziness and warmth.  
 
“Just when short padded jackets are all the rage, here I am, quietly eyeing long padded coats,” said Lee Eu-gene, who is now searching for a new long padded jacket, regardless of the trend.  
 

BY KIM JI-YE [[email protected]]
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