Salty, spicy, savory: Inside Korea's globally recognized sauce-making culture

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Salty, spicy, savory: Inside Korea's globally recognized sauce-making culture

Published: 05 Dec. 2024, 08:00 Updated: 06 Dec. 2024, 19:52

LEE JIAN
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Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

Dried dates and red peppers are placed in a hangari (clay pot) filled with ganjang, or soy sauce, and meju (soybean block). [KOREA HERITAGE SERVICE]

The art of making jang, or fermented sauces, was inscribed on Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list on Wednesday, as a communal act that "fosters peace and a sense of belonging."

The process, dating back centuries, is at the "start and center" of the country's cuisine, according to head chef of fermented food manufacturer Sempio, Choi Jung-yoon.

"Making of jang embodies the philosophy and attitude behind Korean cuisine," Choi told the Korea JoongAng Daily. "Having it recognized by Unesco is equivalent to having the entirety of Korean cuisine recognized, so it is all the more meaningful."

Jang-making culture is being inscribed on Unesco's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity during the 19th Session of the organization's Inter-Governmental Committee in Asunción, Paraguay, on Wednesday. [NEWS1]

Jang, namely ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang (soybean paste) and gochujang, is in nearly all Korean dishes, often in lieu of salt. Records have it being used as far back as the Goguryeo Kingdom (37 B.C.-A.D. 668), according to The Academy of Korean Studies.

A hangari used to ferment jang [KOREA HERITAGE SERVICE]

Contrary to their pungent smells and tastes, jang are known to be excellent flavor enhancers. Their uses are seemingly endless as they work their umami magic into nearly all guk (soup) and banchan (side dishes). Locals even use them as a dip for raw vegetables.

In recent months, particularly on social media, jang has had more experimental uses, with the creation of gochujang butter and doenjang cookies.

Hangari, or clay pots, are lined up outside at Myeongjae Historic House in South Chungcheong [KOREA HERITAGE SERVICE]

A leading researcher at one of Korea's largest and oldest jang manufacturers, Choi believes that this may well be the chance for the Korean staple sauce to find its way into kitchen pantries around the world.

Before taking on her current position at Sempio, Choi worked as a chef in five-star hotels and as a researcher at the Spanish food research center, Alícia Foundation. She also co-wrote "The Korean Cookbook" (2023), together with chef Park Jung-hyun of New York City's Michelin two-star Atomix, and is the founder of Nanro, an esteemed community of chefs and industry experts dedicated to promoting Korean cuisine.

From tips on making your own jang at home to the best ways to incorporate it into your everyday meals, here is some of Choi's shared knowledge about the condiment.

Blocks of soybean hang from the roof to dry. [KOREA HERITAGE SERVICE]

Q. Is there a big difference between store-bought and homemade jang?

A. Jang manufacturers have mastered the technical aspects of fermentation, which can be a very inconsistent process. The taste is uniform and standard, catering to the majority's palate.

Self-made jang, on the other hand, can be less consistent. There is room for some personalization, and the cook can pick and choose which additional ingredients they want to throw in. So, there is a difference, but one is not above the other.

Can you give some tips to those looking to make jang at home?

The easiest jang to try at home is gochujang primarily because it doesn't require the whole meju, which is really tricky to make and ferment properly under the right conditions. Gochujang instead uses meju powder, which is available at supermarkets, along with its other highly accessible ingredients like rice syrup and gochugaru (red pepper powder).

Gochujang also has a shorter fermentation time of about three to six months, as opposed to ganjang or doenjang, which takes at least a year. It is best to ferment it inside a hangari, but a plastic container suffices as well as gochujang is less affected by temperature changes.

Why does jang go so well with everything?

The secret is in fermentation. The process creates an ideal balance of taste because it brings together all the different flavors as one.

How can jang be incorporated into Western dishes?

Jang pairs very well with Western cuisine. Doenjang is delicious when eaten with dairy products or fats like eggs, cheese and pizza. Gochujang goes especially well with proteins like seafood and meats because they bring up their natural flavors. Ganjang is great with cooked vegetables and meat. In Korea, we soak our meat — galbi, or beef short ribs — in ganjang for the beloved sweet and salty protein dish.

Sempio has been working for over a decade to shed global light on jang through its Sempio Jang Project and Yondu Culinary Studio in New York City. Below are some of its recipes incorporating jang for home cooks. More can be found on its website, sempio.com/research/jang.