Bulgogi, Japan's 'Genghis Khan' dish and the importance of culinary history
Published: 13 Feb. 2025, 00:00
Moon Jung-hoon
The author is a professor at the Department of Agricultural Economics and Sociology at Seoul National University and the director of Food Business Lab.
It is an incredibly challenging endeavor to develop a new food or beverage that has never existed before, convince consumers to embrace it and ultimately make it a part of culinary culture. It often requires efforts spanning generations. Since people tend to fear unfamiliar substances entering their bodies, the food and dining industries strive to create "familiar novelties" — new dishes that feel innovative yet do not stray too far from existing culinary norms. Once a dish gains traction in the market, it becomes relatively easy to develop slightly different variations through a "follower" strategy, often requiring only a fraction of the time and resources spent by the original pioneers. That is precisely why tracing the origins of culinary innovations and documenting their evolution is so important, not only to honor the efforts of those pioneers but also to pave the way for future innovations.
The intense debate over whether bulgogi (thin strips of grilled marinated beef) or Japan’s yakiniku (grilled meat) came first has largely been settled. It is now widely accepted that both originated from the culinary practices of ethnic Koreans who migrated to Japan during the Japanese colonial period. However, another mystery arises with a dish found in Japan’s northern regions: the mutton barbecue dish known as "Genghis Khan."
Koreans encountering Genghis Khan for the first time are often bewildered. The grilling pan used for this dish, with its convex center and concave edges designed to collect and retain meat juices, is strikingly similar to the pan used for bulgogi. Even the practice of cooking vegetables in the pooled meat juices and eventually adding noodles bears a strong resemblance. Did bulgogi influence Genghis Khan? Or was it the other way around? Or do both share a common origin?
The Genghis Khan dish is, in fact, relatively modern and has no direct ties to Mongolia. It was deliberately developed in Japan in the 1930s, during a period when the country harbored ambitions of territorial expansion into mainland Asia. To support its war efforts, Japan needed wool for military supplies and thus promoted large-scale sheep farming in the northern regions. Once wool was harvested, the remaining sheep meat needed to be consumed, leading to the creation and dissemination of mutton-based recipes, one of which was Genghis Khan. While today’s version of the dish often involves dipping grilled mutton into a sauce, the original recipe involved marinating the meat before grilling — much like bulgogi.
According to Japanese sources, Genghis Khan was inspired by the Chinese dish kaoyangrou (grilled and marinated mutton), which was popular in Manchuria, a region where mutton consumption was high. The earliest versions of the grill, developed in the 1930s, were either wire mesh or convex metal plates without a reservoir to collect meat juices. At the time, the dish simply involved grilling thinly sliced, marinated mutton. The modern version — where the grill’s rim collects meat juices, allowing vegetables and noodles to be cooked in them — did not emerge until the 1950s. It was then that the Genghis Khan grill took on a shape nearly identical to the bulgogi grill used today.
In Korea, restaurants specializing in the Japanese-style Genghis Khan barbecue thrived in the 1960s but disappeared by the 1980s. During its heyday in the '60s and '70s, the dish was closer to a hot pot than a grilled barbecue. By the 1980s, it had evolved into a stew-like dish served in shinseollo, traditional Korean brass hot pots, before eventually fading from the dining scene. Notably, Korean versions of the dish primarily used beef instead of mutton.
There are various theories about the origins of the bulgogi grill in Korea. Some suggest it came from North Korea, while others claim it was first fashioned from repurposed U.S. military oil drums. However, no definitive origin has been established. A 1961 Korean film, "Third-Class Manager", features a family dining scene where a bulgogi grill appears in a form identical to the one used today, indicating that the design was already widely in use at the time. Given how similar it is to the Genghis Khan grill, the resemblance seems more than coincidental. Japanese records indicate that this type of grill existed in Japan before being used for Genghis Khan in the 1950s, but the exact reason behind its adoption remains unclear. When did Korea start using this type of grill? And why did Japan modify its own version?
Korea still lacks comprehensive documentation on the history of bulgogi. While there are undeniable connections between bulgogi, Japan’s yakiniku, Genghis Khan and sukiyaki (Japanese hot pot), academic research on these links remains scarce. The debate over culinary origins is not merely about national pride. Understanding the past is crucial for inspiring new culinary creations and innovations in the future. The pioneers who popularized bulgogi as a sophisticated dining experience in the 1930s have long since passed. Before it is too late, the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, the Korean Food Promotion Institute and academic institutions must take the initiative to collect, record, preserve and share this vital part of culinary history.
Translated using generative AI and edited by Korea JoongAng Daily staff.
Moon Jung-hoon
The author is a professor at the Department of Agricultural Economics and Sociology at Seoul National University and the director of Food Business Lab.
It is an incredibly challenging endeavor to develop a new food or beverage that has never existed before, convince consumers to embrace it and ultimately make it a part of culinary culture. It often requires efforts spanning generations. Since people tend to fear unfamiliar substances entering their bodies, the food and dining industries strive to create "familiar novelties" — new dishes that feel innovative yet do not stray too far from existing culinary norms. Once a dish gains traction in the market, it becomes relatively easy to develop slightly different variations through a "follower" strategy, often requiring only a fraction of the time and resources spent by the original pioneers. That is precisely why tracing the origins of culinary innovations and documenting their evolution is so important, not only to honor the efforts of those pioneers but also to pave the way for future innovations.
The intense debate over whether bulgogi (thin strips of grilled marinated beef) or Japan’s yakiniku (grilled meat) came first has largely been settled. It is now widely accepted that both originated from the culinary practices of ethnic Koreans who migrated to Japan during the Japanese colonial period. However, another mystery arises with a dish found in Japan’s northern regions: the mutton barbecue dish known as "Genghis Khan."
Koreans encountering Genghis Khan for the first time are often bewildered. The grilling pan used for this dish, with its convex center and concave edges designed to collect and retain meat juices, is strikingly similar to the pan used for bulgogi. Even the practice of cooking vegetables in the pooled meat juices and eventually adding noodles bears a strong resemblance. Did bulgogi influence Genghis Khan? Or was it the other way around? Or do both share a common origin?
The Genghis Khan dish is, in fact, relatively modern and has no direct ties to Mongolia. It was deliberately developed in Japan in the 1930s, during a period when the country harbored ambitions of territorial expansion into mainland Asia. To support its war efforts, Japan needed wool for military supplies and thus promoted large-scale sheep farming in the northern regions. Once wool was harvested, the remaining sheep meat needed to be consumed, leading to the creation and dissemination of mutton-based recipes, one of which was Genghis Khan. While today’s version of the dish often involves dipping grilled mutton into a sauce, the original recipe involved marinating the meat before grilling — much like bulgogi.
According to Japanese sources, Genghis Khan was inspired by the Chinese dish kaoyangrou (grilled and marinated mutton), which was popular in Manchuria, a region where mutton consumption was high. The earliest versions of the grill, developed in the 1930s, were either wire mesh or convex metal plates without a reservoir to collect meat juices. At the time, the dish simply involved grilling thinly sliced, marinated mutton. The modern version — where the grill’s rim collects meat juices, allowing vegetables and noodles to be cooked in them — did not emerge until the 1950s. It was then that the Genghis Khan grill took on a shape nearly identical to the bulgogi grill used today.
In Korea, restaurants specializing in the Japanese-style Genghis Khan barbecue thrived in the 1960s but disappeared by the 1980s. During its heyday in the '60s and '70s, the dish was closer to a hot pot than a grilled barbecue. By the 1980s, it had evolved into a stew-like dish served in shinseollo, traditional Korean brass hot pots, before eventually fading from the dining scene. Notably, Korean versions of the dish primarily used beef instead of mutton.
There are various theories about the origins of the bulgogi grill in Korea. Some suggest it came from North Korea, while others claim it was first fashioned from repurposed U.S. military oil drums. However, no definitive origin has been established. A 1961 Korean film, "Third-Class Manager", features a family dining scene where a bulgogi grill appears in a form identical to the one used today, indicating that the design was already widely in use at the time. Given how similar it is to the Genghis Khan grill, the resemblance seems more than coincidental. Japanese records indicate that this type of grill existed in Japan before being used for Genghis Khan in the 1950s, but the exact reason behind its adoption remains unclear. When did Korea start using this type of grill? And why did Japan modify its own version?
Korea still lacks comprehensive documentation on the history of bulgogi. While there are undeniable connections between bulgogi, Japan’s yakiniku, Genghis Khan and sukiyaki (Japanese hot pot), academic research on these links remains scarce. The debate over culinary origins is not merely about national pride. Understanding the past is crucial for inspiring new culinary creations and innovations in the future. The pioneers who popularized bulgogi as a sophisticated dining experience in the 1930s have long since passed. Before it is too late, the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, the Korean Food Promotion Institute and academic institutions must take the initiative to collect, record, preserve and share this vital part of culinary history.
Translated using generative AI and edited by Korea JoongAng Daily staff.
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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