Moravia chef conjures flavors from Czech in-laws’ kitchen

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Moravia chef conjures flavors from Czech in-laws’ kitchen

Published: 09 Jun. 2025, 07:00 Updated: 09 Jun. 2025, 17:18

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

Nikol Chae, the wife of the owner of the Czech restaurant Moravia, prepares food at the restaurant in Mapo District, western Seoul. [PARK SANG-MOON]

[AMBASSADOR’S TABLE – RESTAURANT REVIEW]

It could have been a miserable day. I woke to a curtain of rain — the kind that dampens your mood before you even step outside. And when I did, the wind joined in, slapping against my face as I made my way toward Hapjeong.

The neighborhood in western Seoul’s Mapo District is known for its trendy bars and Instagram-worthy cafes, rarely stirring thoughts of Europe. But tucked into a quiet alley just off the main street stood a redbrick, two-story house with a turquoise front door and a white-fenced patio. I didn’t need my map anymore.

The second floor of the Czech restaurant Moravia in Mapo District, western Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

A photo of Nikol Chae's relative placed on a table at the Czech restaurant Moravia in Mapo District, western Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Stepping into the Czech restaurant and wine bar Moravia, the chill of the rain disappeared instantly as the warmth embraced me. For a moment, I wondered — had I walked into a restaurant, or the home of a long-lost European aunt?

Vintage shelves, mismatched tables and warm string lights filled the room. Unique ornaments and colorful books lined the counters and shelves, with potted plants in every cozy corner. Black-and-white family photos were scattered throughout — the owner’s wife later told me they were of her and her relatives.

Cozy is a word often abused, but here, it earns its place. No wonder it’s the Czech ambassador to Korea’s favorite restaurant for a taste of home.

Chef Chae Young-bin and his wife, Nikol Chae, pose for a photo at their restaurant, Moravia. [PARK SANG-MOON]

But the real comfort here wasn't in the setting. It was on the plate. Chef Chae Young-bin, Korean-born and Czech-married, brings memories from his in-laws’ table in Moravia, a historical region in the eastern Czech Republic, with his wife Nikol. There’s no trend-chasing here, just hearty, classic European dishes.

Goulash served at the Czech restaurant Moravia [PARK SANG-MOON]

You can taste it in the goulash, one of the Czech Republic’s most beloved traditional dishes. Beef and onions are simmered in a red-wine-colored stew, thickened with pureed carrots and seasoned with powdered paprika. The beef is tender without falling apart, and the flavor is surprisingly mellow — a dish that doesn’t shout but lingers long after a spoonful.

And while one might expect Czech beer, the chef, who opened the place last March, pairs his cuisine with wine — quite a rebellion and a loving nod to the country’s overlooked vineyards. The goulash sings with a glass of Thaya’s Pinot Noir, a light-bodied red with a clean finish.

Svickova na smetane served at the Czech restaurant Moravia [PARK SANG-MOON]

The same sense of tradition echoes in the svickova na smetane, one of the most well-known Czech meat dishes. Two medium slices of sirloin rest in a mustard-colored vegetable cream sauce, served with pillowy dumplings and a generous scoop of cranberry sauce beneath whipped cream. You might expect finely ground stuffing wrapped in a thin skin with the mention of "dumpling," but these are Czech bread dumplings — called knedliky — more like steamed bread, made from simple ingredients like butter and egg.

With so many components on one plate, it may sound overwhelming, but one bite — chewy, soft, sweet and slightly sour — brings together perfect balance and texture. A glass of Ryzlink Rynsky, a light and clean white wine, rounds it out after a spoonful, preparing you for the next bite.

Schnitzel served at the Czech restaurant Moravia [PARK SANG-MOON]

My yearning for Europe vanished with a bite of rizek, the Czech version of schnitzel. A thin slice of pork tenderloin breaded in fine crumbs and fried in butter arrives with creamy potato salad mixed with carrots, cucumbers, onions and egg. What sets this cutlet apart — with a crispness reminiscent of a gourmet biscuit — is that it’s fried in clarified butter rather than the more typical oil, giving it a light, nongreasy finish while also preserving its traditional roots. A swipe of tangy berry sauce cuts through the richness, and a glass of Veltlinske Zelene, a fruity white wine, pairs well with its richness.

Tatarak — steak tartare — served at the Czech restaurant Moravia [PARK SANG-MOON]

Then there’s the tatarak — steak tartare — the newest addition to the menu and my personal favorite. Finely chopped raw beef, topped with a raw egg yolk, is mixed at the table with a savory sauce, served alongside cloves of raw garlic and toasted bread. You rub a clove of garlic onto the bread, infusing it with a sharp, aromatic kick, then spread the tartar over it. Each bite delivers a punch of raw garlic and a perfectly balanced, chewy texture that leaves you wanting to go back for another.

To end on a sweet note, sip a glass of Vinselekt Michlovsky’s Vinum Palaviense. Lightly sweet, floral and clean, it finishes the meal like a soothing cup of tea.

Thaya wines served with a plate of cheese and charcuterie [PARK SANG-MOON]

Czech restaurant Moravia in Mapo District, western Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

The day may have started off dreary and wet, but the rain and misted windows only added to the feeling of being welcomed to a warm meal in the Czech countryside.

Moravia opens daily from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., except on Mondays.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]