Explore German flavors on a 'wine vacation' at Grund

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Explore German flavors on a 'wine vacation' at Grund

Published: 13 Oct. 2025, 07:00 Updated: 13 Oct. 2025, 13:38

WOO JI-WON
[email protected]

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

Wine bar Grund in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

[AMBASSADOR’S TABLE - RESTAURANT REVIEW]

“Welcome to Grund, a wine vacation.”

That’s how Oskar Kim greets guests who step into his wine bar Grund in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul. For him, it’s not “just a place to drink, but a way to experience a trip to Germany.”

Grund is a natural extension of his former career in the travel industry. For more than a decade, the 42-year-old led city tours for Korean tourists in Germany, mainly in Frankfurt, Munich and Berlin.

“Traveling was my life and work,” Kim said. “This store is the product of my long travels in Germany.”

Grund calls itself a “Riesling bar.” Riesling is a white wine that originated in Germany, made from the Riesling grape.

“‘German wine bar’ is the correct term, but that sounds too stiff and not fun. Riesling is the symbol of German wine, so I used that name. But we don’t just serve Riesling. We offer various types of German wines.”

Grund owner Oskar Kim pours beer at the bar. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Kim’s passion is evident not only in what he pours, but also in how he speaks about each wine, vineyard and region with intimate detail to customers. He occasionally hosts wine tastings to share his knowledge.

For the first glass, Kim often recommends Knebel’s Riesling Kabinett. Lightly sweet, refreshing and clean on the finish, it carries fruit-forward aromas without heaviness. It pairs nicely with a cheese platter of Brie and BellaVitano as well as melon slices, but is equally enjoyable on its own.

A cheese platter with a glass of Riseling Kabinett [PARK SANG-MOON]

“It’s the perfect wine to drink with the window open on a warm afternoon, looking out at nature,” Kim said. “It’s not about forcing pairings with food, but simply enjoying the wine’s flavor as it is.”

Another Riesling from Zilliken, a renowned producer that makes various kinds of Riesling, offers crisp acidity that lingers deep in your chest. It's the kind of taste that stirs the appetite. Kim paired it with a flammkuchen, a classic German flatbread made with paper-thin dough, sour cream, or schmand in German, red onions, smoked ham, cheese and a sprinkle of green onion.

Zilliken Riesling wine served with flammkuchen [PARK SANG-MOON]

“In fact, Germans don’t really drink wine with separate drinking snacks. Alcohol accompanies food, not the other way around. That’s why flammkuchen is such an important dish. It’s very light, something you can eat casually without interfering with the wine.”

Crispy at the edges, soft and clean in the middle, it complemented the dry wine well.

Flammkuchen, however, can be customized as one likes. “The point is to keep it light and minimal. As long as you stick to the basics, you can add whatever you like, just like pizza.”

Grund also serves a Pfalz Trocken Riesling produced in Germany’s sunny region.The abundant sunlight gives the fruit extra richness, resulting in a clean wine with a crisp finish that catches at the throat. It’s a strong match for hearty, fatty dishes, making schweinshaxe an especially fitting pairing.

Schweinshaxe served at Grund [PARK SANG-MOON]

“The menu says schweinshaxe takes 12 hours, but in reality it’s closer to a full day of salting, marinating with spices, boiling and roasting,” Kim explained.

The pork knuckle is grilled with dark beer poured over them, and the meat juices mixed with the beer create the base of the sauce. He usually serves it with three types of sausages from a famous nearby charcuterie, choosing depending on his mood and availability. Sauerkraut on the side adds a refreshing balance — much like kimchi — pairing well with rich, fatty meat.

In the past, Kim’s menu included pasta that was popular with customers. But he eventually removed it.

“In a small bar, once the number of customers increased, it was impossible to keep the balance. I had to let it go in order to focus fully on wine.” Now, most of the food at Grund can be prepared in the oven — giving Kim time to serve guests while the dishes cook.

Grund signboard [PARK SANG-MOON]

“Everyone knows how great Italian and French wines are. But what fascinated me was that many people are unaware of how great German wine is. What really interests me is exploring the lesser known. And German wine, beyond its quality, is also the wine of the future.”

Grund is located at 13, Seongsui-ro 12-gil, Seongdong District. Hours are 3 p.m. to midnight Monday through Friday, and noon to midnight on Saturday. It is closed on Sunday.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]