Beyond the stereotypes: Two unique spots in Seoul for Indian cuisine

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Beyond the stereotypes: Two unique spots in Seoul for Indian cuisine

Published: 25 Oct. 2025, 12:23 Updated: 27 Oct. 2025, 19:12

LEE JIAN
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Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

Masala Chai at Noppensan in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul [LEE JIAN]

Indian food is well-known in Seoul — but somehow, much of it looks and tastes the same.

Curries arrive in identical brass bowls and the tandoori chicken sizzles on a hot stone platter with scattered onion slices, while dimly lit dining halls are covered with paisley patterns and elephants.

Many are run by Nepali or Punjabi chefs who specialize in North Indian cooking — the version of Indian cuisine that has long been exported abroad. Across the world, the image of “Indian food” has been shaped by the British colonial legacy and the global restaurant circuit, where creamy curries and Mughlai-style dishes became the universal shorthand for India’s vast culinary landscape.

They are beloved classics, but hardly the whole story. To explore the range, The Korea JoongAng Daily visited two spots in Seoul that go beyond the cuisine’s stereotypes.

Elevated Indian at Indica

Fig and almond kofta curry at Indica in Yongsan District, central Seoul [LEE JIAN]

Since opening in 2020, Indica in central Seoul’s Yongsan District has earned a loyal following, though it remains underrated compared to the media frenzy around some of the city’s flashier spots.

For its diners, that is a good thing. Indica still remains accessible — no crazy reservation process or waiting in line.

Interior of Indica in Yongsan District, central Seoul [LEE JIAN]

Tucked down a flight of stairs beneath an Italian restaurant, guests are welcomed into an elevated yet comfortable atmosphere, stylishly designed in a warm palette of beige and light wood, accented with greenery and ample natural light.

The prices are on par with what Seoul diners might spend at a mid- to high-end Italian restaurant. The level of service, friendly and attentive, rivals that of fine dining.

Pani Puri at Indica in Yongsan District, central Seoul [LEE JIAN]

A fun start to the meal is pani puri, priced at 5,000 won ($3.50) each, an Indian street snack of hollow fried balls filled with spiced potato and tamarind chutney. At Indica, it is served with coriander-infused water, which the diners pour into the opening of the ball and eat in a single bite. It is a spicy and tangy flavor bomb that quite literally explodes inside the mouth.

For the main course, the curry leaf chicken (35,000 won) and butter chicken curry (33,000 won) are easy favorites. For a more varied experience, the fig and almond kofta (30,000 won) curry is a light and simultaneously creamy curry with a tomato and cashew nut base topped with fig and almond balls. It pairs beautifully with the ajwain fish (35,000 won) — soft and aromatic John Dory fillets marinated with carom seeds and hung curd, served alongside a sweet-tart tamarind chutney.

“Through my travels across India, I had the chance to explore kitchens from Gujarat to Kerala, learning how each region uses ingredients differently,” Indica’s owner Jay Rafa told the Korea JoongAng Daily. “That journey inspired me to bring a wider spectrum of flavors to Indica, beyond the usual North Indian classics.”

Ajwain fish at Indica in Yongsan District, central Seoul [LEE JIAN]

Chai at Noppensan

Pink Chai, left, and Masala Chai at Noppensan in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul [JIAN LEE]

Chai is a growing drink in Seoul’s restless cafe scene. One of its staples is Noppensan in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul. With its minimal wooden interior, the space doesn’t immediately suggest Indian influences. Opened in 2020 by a Korean couple who met in India, it is more like a love song to India. The mirrors on its pillars, for instance, are an homage to Irani cafes that are common in Mumbai. Its signboard was designed in India by the owner, Kim Sae-som.

Interior of Noppensan in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul [LEE JIAN]

Noppensan’s chai stands out for its variety, including classics like masala chai (4,500 won) and ginger chai (4,000 won), and less common options like Hotel Chai (6,000 won) with cardamom, ginger and butter, which the couple drank at an old hotel in Mumbai, and Rum Chai (6,000 won), which is infused with an Indian dark rum called Old Monk, cardamom and ginger.

Its masala chai is bold, containing a forward nutty flavor mixed with notes of spiciness and earthiness, and a hint of sweetness. It is served hot in an 80-milliliter (2.7-ounce) shot glass. Its Pink Chai (4,000 won) is a simpler tasting sweet drink with a green tea and milk base that is brewed to a soft pink hue, then sprinkled with crushed pistachios.