A walk on Yongsan's hiddenly hip other side of the tracks

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A walk on Yongsan's hiddenly hip other side of the tracks

Published: 31 Oct. 2025, 07:00 Updated: 31 Oct. 2025, 12:49

JIN EUN-SOO
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Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

A train passes by at one of the alleyways in Hangangro-dong in Yongsan District, central Seoul. [PARK SANG-MOON]

[ABOUT TOWN]: Hangangro-dong, Yongsan District

Few neighborhoods in Seoul embody Korea's past, present and future as strikingly as Yongsan District — or more precisely, Hangangro-dong, the western side of the neighborhood anchored by Yongsan Station.

A transportation hub since the Japanese colonial era (1910-1945), the longtime home of a sprawling U.S. military base and now the seat of the presidential office, this pocket of the district in central Seoul stands as a living testament to Korea’s bittersweet modern history.

But that is only a part of the story.

After the U.S. military began relocating from Seoul, development restrictions in the neighborhood were gradually lifted, prompting a transformation of the area's skyline. High-rise buildings, upscale apartments and corporate headquarters such as HYBE and Amorepacific quickly settled in. What was once an underdeveloped town, compared to its affluent neighborhoods like Hannam-dong, has now become one of Seoul's most coveted real estate zones.

"My building owner, who used to wander around in 3,000-won slippers, now arrives in a Mercedes," one of the restaurant owners in Hangangro-dong who has been in business for 25 years said. "This kind of crowd was unimaginable just 20 years ago."

And Hangangro-dong's transformation is far from over.

In place of the former U.S. military camp, a vast national park is under construction, prompting some to imagine the space might one day rival New York's Central Park or London's Hyde Park.

With the influx of office workers and new residents, a wave of new eateries, cafes and bars has arrived. Some have already filled the alleyways of so-called Yongridan-gil, the very popular — and very crowded — area near Sinyongsan Station, while others are just beginning to pop up along the railway tracks near Yongsan Station.

The newer venues lean into the area's history, retaining low ceilings, weathered walls and creaky doors — all styled in the most deliberately hip way. Visitors must be careful to distinguish renovated spots from longstanding homes of actual residents.

Buzzing on weekdays with office workers and even livelier on weekends with Gen Z visitors and tourists, this lesser-known side of Yongsan rewards those who wander. Korea JoongAng Daily offers a full-day itinerary to help you make the most of it.

A mandu (dumpling) soup with rice cake at Gaetmaeul [JIN EUN-SOO]

Start with a hearty meal
A day in this neighborhood ought to start early because there's simply so much to see and do around here. So fueling up with a filling breakfast or brunch is a must.

A reliable choice is Gaetmaeul, known for its handmade kimchi mandu, or Korean dumplings. Available steamed, in soup or in jeongol (Korean-style hot pot), mandu here come in one type only — mildly spicy and filled with fermented kimchi. They are bite-sized rather than the larger ones found elsewhere.

Mandu soup with rice cake, one of its most popular menu items, comes in a refreshingly light, clear broth. In Korea, fans of mandu soup are often split between those who prefer a clear anchovy-kelp broth and those who favor a rich, thick beef broth. Gaetmaeul's version will appeal to the former.

This neighborhood staple opens at 10 a.m. and fills up quickly. Yet despite the lunchtime rush, the staff warmly welcomes solo diners, families with babies and tourists alike. Its signature mandu soup with rice cake cost 13,000 won ($9).

Clear codfish stew at Won Daegutang for two person [PARK SANG-MOON]

Another classic spot for breakfast is Won Daegutang in the nearby Samgakji codfish alley, which has been serving clear codfish stew since the 1970s. They have the spicy version, too, but a clear version is recommended. Made with cod flesh and intestines and topped with a generous amount of water parsley and bean sprouts, the dish is comforting and filling. Just don't reach out for a bottle of soju because the savory broth keeps calling the next bottle, and you won't be able to make it to the next destination.

According to the owner, the diner still sees over 200 groups of customers daily. With the neighborhood now under redevelopment, now may be your last chance to experience this piece of old Yongsan.

This diner opens from 10 a.m. and the clear codfish stew for two persons cost 28,000 won.

Explore at your own pace

Amorepacific headquarters [JOONGANG ILBO]

Most of Yongsan’s well-known tourist spots are concentrated in the eastern part of the district, such as the National Museum of Korea, but this side of town also offers a few gems — small in size, but big in content.

Start at Amorepacific headquarters, an architectural landmark inspired by Korea's traditional moon jars and designed by world-renowned architect David Chipperfield. While the building houses corporate offices, the lower floors are open to the public and include a museum — currently exhibiting works by American artist Mark Bradford — as well as craft and cosmetic shops. It offers a decent selection of eateries such as Italian diner Cucciolo, teahouse Osulloc and Japanese-style pork cutlet restaurant Ojeje.

Yongsan History Museum in Yongsan District in central Seoul [JIN EUN-SOO]

Just a short walk away, the Yongsan History Museum occupies a redbrick building that once served as the Yongsan Railroad Hospital, built in 1928. Designated as a National Registered Cultural Heritage site, this museum, which opened in 2022, preserves original architectural features like stained glass and green tiles from surgery rooms. Alongside its permanent exhibition on the history of Yongsan, rotating special displays also offer a unique story about the neighborhood.

Across the museum is IPARK Mall, a shopping mall complex connected to Yongsan Station. Once a dated venue frequented mostly by travelers killing time before their trains, it has been reborn as a highly popular lifestyle destination. Dopamine Station, a space on the third floor filled with the trendiest pop-ups and experience zones, must not be missed. It also houses a Shilla IPARK duty-free store and a handful of fast-fashion brands, such as Zara, H&M, Arket and Musinsa, for those looking for a staple shopping experience.

Dopamine Station at IPARK Mall in Yongsan District in central Seoul [YONHAP]

Ddaengddaeng-geori
Just across the street from Yongsan Station lies Ddaengddaeng-geori, a stretch of road named after the onomatopoeic "ding ding" of its still-operating railroad crossing — an infrequent sight in Seoul. This area was once a residential district for railway workers and is still home to many early 20th-century buildings, with their original facades intact.

Somewhere in this alley-laced neighborhood sits Shawnino, a cozy Italian restaurant reminiscent of the Amalfi Coast with its lemon-hued decor. If you've gotten hungry from all the walking and sightseeing, this place is a pleasant stop to refuel. It serves all-day brunches until 5 p.m. and transforms into a wine bar at night.

An alleyway in Hangangro-dong in Yongsan District, central Seoul [JIN EUN-SOO]

Vongole topped with radish greens and pistachios at Shawnino [JIN EUN-SOO]

The chef, a contestant on Netflix's hit survival show "Culinary Class Wars," prepares fresh takes on the classics: Vongole pasta sold at 25,900 won gets a crunch from radish greens and pistachios, while squid ink risotto, at 26,500 won, is spiced up with monkfish and spicy chili oil. The setting is very Instagrammable and the place is always booked, but the service remains thoughtful — when this reporter spilled a drink on a dish of half-eaten pasta, the chef insisted on replacing the dish at no charge.

If a Korean diner is more to your liking, visit Goduri, a humble tofu diner beloved by Yongsan's office crowd. It is not exactly within Ddaengddaeng-geor, per se, but just a 10-minute walk from it. Their tofu is made fresh daily and served panfried in perilla oil, in bubbling jjigae (stew) or in hearty jeongol. The accompanying kimchi — an essential pairing for any tofu dish — is also house-made, creating a well-balanced, flavorful meal.

Pan-fried tofu in perilla oil and a pancake made out of soy pulp at Goduri [JIN EUN-SOO]

Pu'er tea at G U Tea [PARK SANG-MOON]

For a bit of relaxation, stop by G U Tea, a serene teahouse offering a rotating selection of Pu'er teas, a fermented black tea from China, along with tea ceremonies and morning meditation sessions on weekends. The space includes sofas and even beds, staying true to the owner's intention of offering a place where people can "relax to their maximum."

Wind down with a drink

The exterior of Hay Coffee & Bar at Yongsan District in central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Finding a place to drink in Yongsan is easy, though finding one that matches your vibe may take some work.

One decent place is Hay Coffee & Bar. Nestled in Ddaengddaeng-geori, this hanok (Korean traditional house)-turned-bar serves a selection of pricey but excellent hand-drip coffee by day and whiskey by night. Its signature “Hay” drip coffee — which rotates its beans regularly — served Colombia Campo Hermoso during this reporter’s visit, priced at 11,000 won per cup. It’s an eye-popping price, even by Seoul’s premium coffee standards, but taking the first sip instantly justified the price. The venue retains the hanok's original wooden beams, and the back wall behind the bar is lined with an impressive collection of whiskey bottles.

For something more lively, Hyunseon's Tteokbokki offers a nostalgic local experience. Once a humble food stall in Yongsan, it is now a nationwide franchise. Try the tabletop tteokbokki (Korean spicy rice cake), where you cook it at the table with various add-ins, such as noodles and vegetables. And don't forget to fry the rice in the leftover sauce, because that's the whole point of ordering a tabletop version instead of the one served in a bowl. This place also serves decent bunsik (Korean snack) packages, including assorted fried vegetables and sundae (Korean blood sausage) with intestines. Wash down the greasiness — and shake off the fatigue of the day — with a refreshing draft beer or a shot of soju at this place.