Ghost town no more: Yeouido awakens with a mix of the retro, hip and chic

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Ghost town no more: Yeouido awakens with a mix of the retro, hip and chic

Published: 29 Jan. 2026, 07:00 Updated: 29 Jan. 2026, 12:59

JIN EUN-SOO
[email protected]

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

[ABOUT TOWN]: Yeouido

Seoul is often viewed as a modern, trendy metropolis filled with high-rise buildings, bright billboards and zooming subways. But behind its stylish facade is a more down-to-earth, people's place that goes less noticed. Depending on the part of the city, busy-working locals find solace and joy in sizzling pork belly in an intimate barbecue restaurant, soju shots under a tent, coffee on the roof of a decades-old building and walks along the city's hidden trails. Each dong, or neighborhood, has its own unique history and remnants of the past, making Seoul a checkerboard of cultures and atmospheres.

In this series, the Korea JoongAng Daily examines both the past and present of Seoul's neighborhoods, offering recommendations on how to spend a day there like a local, including what to see and where to eat.

Dahee's signature gin tonic served with basic snacks such as gim (seaweed), dried anchovies, peanuts and chips. [JIN EUN-SOO]

True to its name, Yeouido has long felt like an isolated enclave in the heart of Seoul.

The "do" in Yeouido means "island" in Korean, and the district is technically surrounded by the Han River and a narrow creek.

But Yeouido's sense of isolation doesn't only come from its geography.

Historically a hub for finance and politics, Yeouido has long been dismissed as a sterile office town lacking in leisure and culture. It used to be called a "ghost town" as the neighborhood mostly emptied on weekends.

That reputation, however, is increasingly fading thanks to recent openings of big shopping malls, five-star hotels and premium officetels, attracting Gen Z visitors and foreign tourists. The district has now become home to some of Seoul's most unique pop-ups, diverse shopping options and a growing list of feel-good diners and bars.

Add to that a row of storied baekban (Korean home-style meal) joints tucked into the basement floors of aging commercial buildings, and Yeouido starts to feel less like an island and more like a destination worth exploring.

Cityscape of Yeouido [GETTY IMAGES BANK]

From airport to Seoul's Manhattan

Long before Yeouido became the office-heavy town it is today, it served as an airport during the colonial period (1910-1945) to facilitate the transportation of Japanese people and supplies. After liberation, the airport was repurposed by the U.S. Air Force.

Going into the 1960s, when Korea underwent a rapid economic growth, Yeouido was earmarked by the government for massive development. It became home to Korea's first high-rise apartment complex, as well as the National Assembly and a cluster of financial companies. The area quickly became one of Seoul's most affluent.

But its prosperity was short-lived. During the Asian financial crisis, a wave of financial companies shuttered, and the district's floating population quickly faded. That was when it earned its nickname of "ghost town" as most restaurants and shops shuttered on weekends — typically the busiest time for eateries elsewhere.

A revival began in the 2010s with the opening of major retail hubs, such as IFC Mall and The Hyundai Seoul. These sprawling complexes offered everything from viral pop-up shops to luxury brands and trendy dining options, drawing newcomers back to the area.

Foreign tourists were among the first to catch on to the shift. Their spending in the Yeouido area rose by 479 percent in 2024 compared to 2019, before the pandemic, according to BC Card data. That was the second steepest rise among all neighborhoods in Seoul during the cited period, after Seongsu-dong in eastern Seoul.

Grab lunch like a local

"Locals" in this area are white-collar workers who have approximately an hour — sometimes less — to fill their stomachs, catch up with friends and get caffeinated.

One of the best places to experience the neighborhood's fast-paced energy is the Manhattan Building, formerly known as Yeouido Department Store, which stands at the center of the financial district of eastern Yeouido. Its basement floor is packed with cramped diners in a maze of corridors.

Byeolmi Bokkeum's flame-grilled mix of pork belly and squid [JIN EUN-SOO]

Among a dozen options, Byeolmi Bokkeum is worth trying. It offers flame-grilled pork belly, squid, small octopus, webfoot octopus and more, all smeared with spicy gochuchang (Korean red chili paste) sauce. The seats rotate pretty quickly, but even Yeouido office workers don't dare try this spot often because of its long lines, even before lunchtime. Flame-grilled dishes are only available in two-person portions and cost from 11,000 won (about $7.50). If you are not sure about the spiciness, remember to request the "less spicy" version, as the standard version burns even hotter than Korea's notoriously spicy Buldak Ramen. Rice is served in a large bowl with chopped lettuce on top so that customers can enjoy it like bibimbap. Fluffy steamed egg served in a ttukbaegi (earthen pot) is recommended to soothe your burning tongue.

Won Haejangguk's dried pollock hangover soup [SCREEN CAPTURE]

Won Haejangguk is another local favorite known for its rich dried pollock hangover soup with a generous amount of tofu. In this part of town, it is almost impossible not to stumble upon a spot serving haejangguk (hangover soup), whether it's spicy or mild, with pork intestines, dried pollock, sundae (Korean blood sausage) or bean sprouts. This is a legacy of Korea's hard-drinking office culture, where workers would drink overnight, sleep less than five hours, then stop by at a soup spot before heading back to the battlefield. Many of these hangover soup spots open from morning, some as early as 5 a.m., like Won Haejangguk.

Dried pollock hangover soup at Won Haejangguk costs 7,000 won, a pretty reasonable price, and pairs well with the diner's homemade-style pickled chili.

Despite its frequent appearances in YouTube videos, Hwamok Sundaeguk's taste and service remain the same. An extremely generous amount of pork intestines and sundae is its key strength, and the gukbap (soup with rice) bowls are served in a traditional way, with everything inside, from the rice to the soup and the spicy sauce. If you don't like the spicy broth or are with a kid, feel free ask for a clear one.

Seats at National Assembly Book & Bakery Cafe in western Yeouido overlooks Han River. [JIN EUN-SOO]

Coffee is literally everywhere in Yeouido, but a few spots are particularly worth recommending.

One standout is the National Assembly Book & Bakery Cafe, perched on a hill within the National Assembly grounds. Its rotating book selection is curated by librarians from the National Assembly Library. But don’t expect a quiet, cozy spot to linger for hours over coffee and ideas. Though newly built in 2023, the cafe is already popular thanks to its dazzling panoramic view of the Han River, stretching from Yanghwa Bridge to Mapo Bridge. Tables are limited to two hours.

Fuga Coffee is located in a narrow corridor dotted with old Korean diners. [JIN EUN-SOO]

For something more hidden, try Fuga Coffee, tucked away in the basement of an old shopping arcade — one of the least likely buildings for an artisanal cafe. The shop specializes in hand-drip coffee, offering several options at a relatively affordable 4,000 won per cup. One of its signature drinks, the espresso arancia — a blend of bold espresso and orange syrup — is a popular post-lunch choice among office workers to stay awake for the rest of the working hours.

Fuga Coffee specializes in pour-over coffees. [JIN EUN-SOO]

The venue is small and has no seating, but it is still worth spending a minute or two browsing through its selection of old LPs and CDs.

Drink like a regular

The bartender at Dahee, Mr. Lee, makes the bar's signature gin tonic cocktails. [JIN EUN-SOO]

Yeouido's energy peaks at night with a bit of alcohol in the mix.

Among many chimaek (a combination of fried chicken and beer) and Korean barbecue places that dot the street, there is one cocktail bar that offers a one-of-a-kind experience not just in Yeouido but probably anywhere in the country.

Dahee is a retro cocktail bar that's been in business for more than four decades on the dimly lit basement floor of an old building in eastern Yeouido.

Barely enough to hold a dozen people at once, the 79-year-old bartender, surnamed Lee, has been serving what he calls "cocktail omakase" to customers from all walks of life, including stock traders, film directors, homemakers, foreign tourists and university students.

"Initially, mostly people from this neighborhood, either living or working here, came to this place, but since Covid-19, it has started to go viral online, and now there are so many people visiting that I can barely handle it," Lee said. The place is open from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. every day, including holidays.

Once you take a seat at the bar, Lee quietly sets out a spread of basic snacks: dried anchovies known as myeolchi, with a side of gochujang and soy sauce; bowls of peanuts; and a fistful of random chips given to him by his customers from the day before. No order is needed at first, because a glass of gin tonic with Lee's special ratio of gin, tonic water, and a splash of lemon juice is served as a kind of welcome drink (though not free). The second round is typically a Black Russian or the "Dahee Special," a grapefruit-flavored drink with a punch. From the third drink onward, the customer can order freely as they like — all drinks cost 8,000 won per glass.

The kick here isn't the drinks, but the people. By 5:30 p.m. on a weekday, the small bar was already packed with longtime regulars, most of them dropping by solo. They peeked in with a casual "hi," met by Lee's familiar response — something that went like, "Hey, thought you wouldn’t make it today." The regulars loosely caught up with one another and exchanged light jokes and cheers as Lee mixed their first gin tonics.

"I am nearing 80, but due to these vibrant customers, I have no time to get old," Lee says. "This is my joy."

A glass of chardonnay served at Mulbangul [JIN EUN-SOO]

If a sleek and modern bar is more your style, try Mulbangul, located just a block away on the second floor. A speakeasy with no signboard, this 10-seat wine bar screams photogenic upon entering, with nebula-inspired pink patterns projected onto a brightly lit wall and a mirror ceiling. Guests are presented with about 50 sample scents, which the sommelier uses to tailor wine recommendations based on individual preferences. The food menu is minimal, offering simple dishes like jjapaghetti (Korea's instant black bean noodle) and assorted cheese, but outside food is welcome.

Due to its U-shaped bar, this venue also promotes open conversation either among customers or with the sommelier.

BY JIN EUN-SOO [[email protected]]