Provence comes to Seoul, via Manhattan
Brandade de morue
It is here that Susumu Yonaguni and Jamie Oh have been training Korea’s aspiring chefs, restaurateurs and food stylists in their cooking school, the Oh Jeong Mi Food Art Institute, since the couple came to Korea six years ago. At OKitchen, operated by Mr. Yonaguni, four start-up chefs wield their newly acquired knowledge in European cuisine.
Those dropping by this cozy, converted hanok, which can accommodate up to 30 diners, may hear questions like, “Which wine goes best with our tasting course?” Mr. Yonaguni answers personally, offering tips, assistance and the easy-going smile of a world traveller.
He left his native Japan at age 22 to travel Europe and ended up getting a job as a busboy in a London restaurant. His passion for cooking led him to New York, where he met Ms. Oh, a native of Korea. A one-time pastry chef in New York’s Essex House, Ms. Oh has become a celebrity food stylist, chef and the author of numerous cook books.
Together with his wife, Mr. Yonaguni believes in handing down his skills by teaching at the institute and working at the restaurant. He hopes his contributions can help take the local dining industry to another level.
assorted breads with a flute of sparkling Shiraz from Australia
At OKitchen, where novice chefs test their skills, dining should be affordable, said Mr. Yonaguni, who speaks fluent Korean and English. OKitchen’s wine list is far from intimidating, with tasty New World wines that cost 30,000 won (about $32) on average. A bottle of Chardonnay, 2002 Columbia Crest Grand Estates, Columbia Valley, for example, costs 33,000 won plus 10 percent VAT.
The restaurant’s spirit of experimentation is evident, and the most unusual wine offered is sparkling Shiraz. It is a no-vintage red, called Bleasdale Sparkling Shiraz (38,000 won) from one of the oldest family-owned wineries in Langhorne Creek, South Australia.
I love champagne, and I love Shiraz. So what’s it like to combine the two? I had to try this novel combo from Down Under.
With starters like brandade de morue (10,000 won) and grilled bacon wrapped in radicchio with baby scallops and balsamic reductions (9,000 won), the theme is undoubtedly Provence. As it turned out, Mr. Yonaguni worked at some of New York’s reputable French restaurants, Laurent, Provence, Steak Frit and Eat & Drink. Both house-cured salt cod gratin and bacon dishes are rustic and homey. The chef described them as “comfort food” for New Yorkers.
Indeed, all dishes are prepared in generous portions and without fancy garnish. With a large basket of warm bread, they comforted my stomach and spirit, French country-style. The nicely fizzy and dark currant-flavored Shiraz had a syrupy feel that would be good for duck dishes. But served in a flute, it only added unexpected festivity to my casual dinner there.
Over two visits, I got to try several a la carte dishes instead of the tasting courses designed to be shared by more than three diners. OKitchen serves spaghetti with real bottarga (14,000 won), which is rare in Korea.
Orecchiette is cooked with homemade sausage and roasted eggplant (13,000 won). I appreciated the homestyle dish but had to tell the owner that the pasta was slightly overcooked and that the homemade bacon and sausage lacked the strong herbs that make them distinctive in European kitchens.
OKitchen’s meat selection (16,000 to 20,000 won) changes daily. When I was there, I had grilled chicken and barbecued pork.
grilled chicken
On both occasions, I couldn’t finish the main dish, after reasonably big starters. I usually don’t like sweet-tasting meat, but OKitchen’s barbecue sauce was just right for the tender, pink pork slices. Grilled chicken revealed a moist and creamy white interior under the nicely roasted skin, and it went very well with grilled potatoes and spinach.
Mr. Yonaguni is particularly proud of the desserts (6,000 won) designed by his wife, who has also become a successful caterer in Korea. They are made to please and ease the stomach after dinner.
To counter-balance heavier meat dishes, Mr. Yonaguni recommended Crepe Suzette, which had intense caramel and orange flavors. For me a bowl of classic English trifle, another rare treat in Korea, worked over a strong cup of coffee.
Passion fruit panna cotta didn’t wobble like soft tofu, but at just 6,000 won and after a round of delicious French country cooking, it was enticing enough for me to plan another comforting dinner at OKitchen.
The exterior of OKitchen in Gahoi-dong.
By Ines cho Staff Writer [inescho@joongang.co.kr]
[How to cook]Grilled radicchio with baby scallop and balsamic glaze
Susumu Yonaguni teaches at his cooking institute and oversees restaurant operations at the OKitchen restaurant in Gahoi-dong, northern Seoul.
The Japanese chef, trained in New York’s French restaurants, shared a secret recipe with IHT-JoongAng Daily readers, which he says can be easily prepared at home.
Ingredients for 4 servings:
4 radicchio leaves
4-6 baby scallops
4 bacon slices
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
dash of salt and pepper
1.Open the scallop shells.Take out the scallops and season them with salt and pepper.
2.Place scallops in the radicchio leaves and wrap them.
3.Roll them with bacon slices. Use toothpicks to secure.
4.In a sauce pan, reduce bal-samic vinegar to glaze consis-tency.
5.Grill or pan-fry the rolls and place them on plates.
6.Drizzle with the balsamic reduction sauce and serve immediately.
OKitchen
English: Spoken, on the menu.
Tel: 02-744-6420
Hours: 6-10 p.m. daily except for Mondays.
Location: 79-2 Gahoi-dong near the Constitutional Court of Korea; by subway, Anguk station, line no. 3, exit 2.
Parking: Paid parking nearby
Dress code: Smart casual
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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