[Deli to go]The down-home taste of bulgogi done right
Bulgogi at Bogeonok By Cho Jae-eun
The area is packed with 30 to 40-year-old restaurants serving up authentic Korean dishes such as Pyongyang nengmyeon (Korean cold noodles), gopchang (cattle intestines) and bulgogi (Korean-style seasoned beef) cooked the old-fashioned way.
Last week, craving some home-style cooking after rows, or mountains really, of donuts and Oreos for dinner, I decided to pay a visit to Bogeonok, a restaurant in the Euljiro area (precisely speaking, Jugyo-dong) specializing in bulgogi. In Bogeonok, there is one main attraction ― bulgogi and the broth it comes with. Here is the traditional way to cook bulgogi: On a large iron plate with a raised middle and a shallow trough around the edge (for the broth) the bulgogi is grilled with mushrooms, carrots, onions and green onions.
After the bulgogi cooks for a few minutes, it naturally slides down and mixes with the broth. After most of the meat is gone, pour in the tiniest bit of kimchi liquid (kimchi is served as a side dish) and enjoy the stew. Since the restaurant also doubles as a butcher’s shop, the meat is top quality and very affordable ― 13,000 won ($14) for one serving.
Three minutes away is the famous Woolaeoak, specializing in grilled beef and Pyongyang nengmyeon. Woolaeoak’s price for bulgogi is almost double that of Bogeonok, but the two restaurants serve meat and broth that is practically identical (although Woolaeoak is a bit fancier in its side dishes and has a sleeker interior). To save a few won, some diligent epicures go to Bogeonok for bulgogi and then run to Woolaeoak to finish off their meal with Pyongyang nengmyeon.
My tablemate and I intended to follow just that course. However, after the tender beef, almost marshmallow-like in texture, and a hearty, ivory-colored broth with an additional noodle order mixed in, we called it quits halfway to Woolaeoak.
“Maybe next week?” We smiled, patted our stomachs and hailed a cab.
Bogeonok is located near Euljiro 4-ga station, line No. 2, exit 4. There is no extra charge for take-out. Call (02) 2275-3743.
By Cho Jae-eun Staff Writer [jainnie@joongang.co.kr]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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