Makgeolli exports surge in first half

Is it possible for Korea’s traditional rice wine, makgeolli, to join the ranks of its red and white kin from France, California and other regions as a drink of choice worldwide?

It’s uncertain at this point, but the beverage is at least moving in the right direction.

Export sales of makgeolli increased 13 percent to $2.134 million in the first half of this year compared with the same period in 2008, according to a report issued yesterday by the National Tax Service. Total export volume increased 16 percent over the same period, hitting 2,635 tons.

Japan was the biggest importer of the alcoholic drink, accounting for 89 percent (2,336 tons) of the export volume, followed by the United States (159 tons), China (57 tons), Australia (20 tons), Vietnam (18 tons), Hong Kong (15 tons), Thailand (11 tons) and Singapore (8 tons).

Makgeolli has been expanding its base internationally, with exports of the drink rising eightfold over the past decade. In 1998, 631 tons ($614,000) of makgeolli were exported abroad, compared to 5,457 tons ($4.42 million) in 2008, according to the state-led tax agency.

Culinary experts say that the increase in exports is partially tied to a growing awareness of the health benefits of fermented drinks. The spread of hallyu, or the Korean wave, has also helped promote the traditional drink abroad. And, of course, there’s its actual taste.

“Makgeolli is very easy to drink, even for foreigners, since it is low in alcohol like beer,” said Ciaran Hickey, an Irish cuisine director at the W Seoul-Walkerhill in Gwangjin District, eastern Seoul. “It has an unusual flavor.”

He notes, though, that the traditional drink doesn’t have much of the complexity of wine, such as different flavors or characteristics.

Still, the drink is gaining an even stronger local following as well. Kook Soon Dang, a traditional wine maker, expects its sales for makgeolli for the June-August period this year to reach 1.8 billion won, an 18-fold spike from that time last year.

“The sales increase is largely due to consumers craving a healthy and refreshing alcoholic drink in the summer,” said Park Min-seo from Kook Soon Dang.

The rainy season also increases sales of makgeolli.

“It is tradition that Koreans want to drink makgeolli when they eat bindaetteok [mung-bean pancakes] on rainy days,” Park said.

By Lee Eun-joo [angie@joongang.co.kr]