Running is exploding in Korea — and so are sneaker sales

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Running is exploding in Korea — and so are sneaker sales

Published: 09 Oct. 2024, 06:00

Participants start the race in the 21st International Peace Marathon in Seoul on Oct. 3. [YONHAP]

As more people in their 20s and 30s pick up track and field, whether as a hobby or competitive sport, demand for running shoes is booming.

From 300,000 won ($223) running shoes to an a influencer-made shoe hierarchy and the new fashion buzzword “running-core,” a cultural landscape is forming around the footwear.

Adidas’s pop-up event “Adidas Ground Seongsu” on Oct. 3 in Seongsu-dong, eastern Seoul, invited visitors to don the brand’s shoes and run on a treadmill. The store, themed around training for track and field, displayed a variety of running shoes, targeting demographics from beginners to professional marathoners.

Adidas Korea runs pop-up event "Adidas Ground Seongsu" on Oct. 3 in Seongsu-dong, eastern Seoul. [YOO JI-YOEN]

Kim Yi-young, 34, said she'd visited the pop-up store after recently gaining interest in running.

“I’m planning to test out running shoes that are for beginners or are for daily use,” said Kim, who described herself as someone who regularly liked to work out.

The running fervor was also evident in the nearby Seoul Forest Park. Three teams of runners — often referred to as “running crews” in Korea — met up in the span of 10 minutes. Next to the park, Goodrunner company, a specialty shop for track and field equipment, bustled with customers. Runners hold the shop in high regard for its service that recommends running shoes based on precise feet measurements.

Track and field equipment shop Goodrunner is a popular spot for runners. [YOO JI-YEON]

The interest in running can be seen in running shoes' sales. Sales of running shoes from July to September were more than 58 percent higher than they were over the same period last year, fashion brand Musinsa said on Oct. 2. In the cooler September, when outside running becomes more viable, sales rose by more than 80 percent on year.

“With the increase of people in their 20s and 30s taking up running as a hobby for health reasons, more customers have been looking for brands that specialize in running shoes,” a source from Musinsa said. “The market is becoming segmented as individuals’ preferences for certain styles and needs diversify.”

Korea’s overall market for sneakers, including those specialized for running, grew from 3.13 trillion won in 2019 to 4 trillion won in 2023, according to the Korea Federation of Textile Industries and estimates from insiders in the fashion industry. Running shoes accounted for more than 1 trillion won of that amount. The biggest changes that have emerged as the market grows are that running shoes have become more specialized in terms of function and brands have become more diverse.

In addition to legacy brands that traditionally do well, like Nike, Adidas and New Balance, newcomers including On Running, Hoka and Saucony have been expanding in Korea. On Running, Asics and Hoka, as well as Nike and Adidas, were the top-selling brands by volume on Kream, where running shoes are actively exchanged, per the secondhand platform's Oct. 4 rankings. Sportswear brands that specialize in the footwear, such as Hoka, Mizuno, Brooks Sports and Altra Running are also climbing the ranks on Musinsa.

A ″hierarchy of running shoes″ created by Danawa with consultation from social media influencer Ahn Hong-bu, who goes by the nickname Myeolchi (anchovy) [DANAWA]

A “running shoe hierarchy” was even created online, creating buzz in the community. The ranking was based on information from online price comparison site Danawa and Ahn Hong-gu, a running influencer who goes by the nickname Myeolchi, which is the Korean word for anchovy. The list notably ranks running shoes, from those for beginners to professionals, in very specific, intuitively named categories, such as world-class, national representative, regional representative and neighborhood representative as well as “visit to a friend.”

“I made the ranking based on the statistics on shoes worn by sub-three marathon runners in the six World Marathon Majors as well as those worn by runners who won prizes in major marathons,” Ahn said. The ranking includes a variety of brands such as Saucony, Hoka and Mizuno.

“Rather than competing in the market for top-tier shoes, which has generally been dominated by Nike or Adidas, [lesser-known brands] are developing running shoes for daily use that can be comfortably worn by the general public and are coming up with designs and an element of comfort that was lacking in previous running shoes,” he explained regarding the recent phenomenon of people choosing budding brands.

Some analysts say the new brands have piqued consumers’ curiosity, primarily on the merit of being new.

Japan's Hoka rapidly became a sought-after brand via word-of-mouth for its shoe cushioning after celebrities endorsed its shoes in unpaid reviews. The brand says its popularity is growing on the shoes’ reputation as a welcome gift for parents after their children initially experience their comfort firsthand at stores. Joyworks, the importer and seller of 15 outdoor clothing brands including Hoka, recorded 43.3 billion won in sales in 2023, up 74.1 percent on year.

Swiss brand On Running is also gaining popularity due to the unique holes in its shoes' cushion soles. The brand was founded by a former professional triathlete with the goal of creating shoes that would produce a comfortable running sensation, and prioritizes high functionality in addition to its popular unique designs and aesthetic quality. The sportswear company also partnered with domestic fashion brand Post Archive Faction (PAF) and Spanish luxury house Loewe and featured Zendaya in campaigns. On Running began to expand in Korea with the launch of its On Korea branch in the country last year.

The hashtag #runningcrew in Korean has over 610,000 search results on Instagram. [SCREEN CAPTURE]

As indicated above, the population of runners largely influences the popularity of running shoes. The sport is especially beloved among the younger generation for its relatively cheap costs as it not does not require potentially expensive equipment, unlike golf and tennis, and is relatively unrestricted when it comes to time and place, with no reservations for spots needed.

Runners actively post photos to social media with hashtags like #runningstagram and #runningcrew. More than 610,000 posts feature the #runningcrew tag as of Tuesday.

The running zeal is evident even through the pace at which registration for large marathon races fills up. Some popular running shoes that go out of stock sell at highly inflated prices on secondhand platforms, indicating an overheating market. High-functioning carbon plate running shoes, worn by professional athletes, which sell for 200,000 to 300,000 won in Korea also run out despite their high prices.

A fashion trend of matching expensive running shoes to daily outfits, referred to as “running-core,” has also emerged. Accessories typically worn for field and track purposes, like vests and sports sunglasses from sportswear and sports eyewear brands such as Satisfy and District Vision, are now worn as fashion items.

The sportswear and fashion industry has prepared a variety of events and promotional gifts as part of the running-core trend. Pro-Specs launched its Speed Rush super foam running shoes and running jackets before starting its monthlong running classes ahead of the marathon season in the latter half of the year. Reebok released its top-of-the-line Floatzig X1 in July. Sneakers brands that don’t specialize in athletic wear, such as Veja and Allbirds, as well as athleisure brands like Andar, are putting out running shoes, raising expectations that the market may get even hotter.

BY YOO JI-YOEN [kim.juyeon2@joongang.co.kr]