[DESSERT]Bakery shop treats go to the heart of the matter
Summer highlights from Dessert. By Cho Jae-eun
The man just needs some horns on his head ― he is the devil in disguise. His rustic-looking shop, decorated with wooden tables and counters, is filled with morsels of desire. The cakes, cookies, chocolate and mousse, all baked in the open kitchen right behind the counter, taste delicate and strong all at once.
Dessert opened this February after Suh left his French restaurant L’Amitie, where he worked as a chef and owner for eight years. Together with pastry chef Cha Seung-hyeon, Suh makes desserts, many with some form of chocolate, which change seasonally.
For the summer, Suh is focusing on mousse and jelly, such as the mango mousse, black sesame mousse and strawberry jelly. Strawberry jelly (5,000 won, $5.40) sounds old-school but Dessert’s version is no ordinary, convenience store jelly; it has chunks of berries and a fresh, acidic taste. The black sesame mousse is equally tasty, with the flavors of all the ingredients (black sesame, black rice and cream) clear in each bite. Unfortunately, I couldn’t have the mango mousse as I’m allergic, but the almost meditative “umms” by co-workers taking bites confirmed its quality.
The cookies (ranging from 500 won to 2,000 won each) were basic and modest, with little decorative elements or pretentious, obscure ingredients. They also mirrored the modest but classic appearance of the owner, who was clad in loose Levi’s, a breezy, linen shirt and a white apron. The dacquiose with figs was especially memorable ― light and fluffy with the texture of the figs balancing out the airiness of the dessert. My favorite, the real scene-stealer, were his macadamia nuts, covered in caramel and then sprinkled with cocoa powder. The sweet caramel coating left a thin, crisp layer which counterbalanced the bitterness of the unsweetened cocoa powder.
The old saying should say that the way to a woman’s heart is baking. As the owner took a giant chocolate brownie from the oven, he said, “This is for the elementary school my kid goes to.” I sighed and pinched my wrist, checking to see if I was in a romantic comedy dream.
*Dessert is located near the Hyundai Department Store in Apgujeong-dong, southern Seoul. The nearest subway is Apgujeong station, line No. 3, exit 6. For more information, call (02) 544-9621.
By Cho Jae-eun Staff Writer [jainnie@joongang.co.kr]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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