Korean models take the global fashion stage
Published: 21 Sep. 2016, 21:27
1. Model Choi So-ra rehearses for Diesel’s 2016 Fall/Winter show in New York on February 2. Model Kim Sung-hee, fifth from left, is waiting alongside fellow models for a Creatures of the Wind show in New York in February. 3. Model Park Ji-hye walks down the runway for Hermes 2016 Fall/Winter. 4. Model Soo Joo, left, at an Alexander Wang show. 5. Lee Bom-chan, second from left, is backstage for Dolce & Gabanna 2016 Fall/Winter in June. 6.Choi So-ra takes a nap backstage. 7. Model Shin Hyun-ji, left, backstage of Chanel’s 2016 Fall/Winter show in Paris. [JOONGANG ILBO]
The major shows of the top designers’ collections in the four fashion cities of New York, London, Milan and Paris usually feature designers from Europe or North America, and are frequently dominated by white models. Many models of color compete for a small number of spots.
In this tough scene, some Korean models are paving the way to make a spot for them and other Korean models on the runways of the top fashion labels. Even during the recent fashion weeks in New York and London, many Korean faces were seen walking the runways wearing designs from the most talked-about brands.
Korean models have been gaining a great deal of buzz, especially since last season. In March, at Chanel’s Fall and Winter collection in Paris, three Korean models including Shin Hyun-ji, Choi So-ra and Soo Joo (Park Soo-joo) made it on the runway. The Chanel show, long considered proof that a certain model is influential in the industry, featured 94 models - three models were from Korea, three from China and one from Japan.
“There was no time to be nervous because I had to pay attention to the complicated walkway,” recalled Shin who worked with Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director for the brand. “But I cried so much in my head because I was so thrilled.”
Other Korean models have also been showing off their performance with top designers. Kim Sung-hee traveled between Milan and New York to work with Tod’s, Derek Lam, and Carolina Herrera, and Park Ji-hye worked the stage to introduce a collaboration between French label Balmain and H&M, along with a show with Hermes. Male models have also made an impact, especially Park Hyeong-seob and Lee Bom-chan.
Why do these models go overseas? Choi So-ra, who made a number of runway appearances during the 2016 Fall/Winter season, says it’s fun. Park Hyeong-seob, who worked in Korea for about five years before setting his sights on global brands says he wanted to play in a bigger pool.
Shin Hyun-ji also has a similar story. When she was in high school with no previous modeling experience, she thought it would be fun to work as a model internationally. So she reached out to an agency in Australia. She didn’t even have an official headshot so she sent a photo taken at a studio in her neighborhood.
“As the number of models not just settling with the work they get to do in Korea increases, the door to the global scene has started to open,” said Shin Dong-seon, an executive of YG K Plus, a local model agency.
Local agencies have been trying to build a network with global agencies as well. These companies have invited casting directors to Korea so that they get a chance to see the local scene and find some jewels.
The history of Korean models working internationally is not very long, and some of the first ones to work outside of Korea were Jang Yoon-ju and Song Kyung-ah in the early 2000s.
A big break didn’t come until the Fall/Winter Prada show in Milan in 2005. Model Hye Park (Park Hye-rim) was chosen to work the stage as the first Asian model for the brand. Local press in Europe reported that she was the first non-white model since Naomi Campbell walked the catwalk in 1993.
She also got a chance to walk in 2011 for French label Balmain and Isabel Marant, long known for only using white models. For about two to three years, Park worked with more than 20 brands that had never hired an Asian model.
Many other Korean models also contributed to breaking the glass ceiling in the global scene step by step. Model Han Hye-jin became the first Korean model to walk in a Gucci show in 2007 in Milan and the first Korean model to close out a show for Anna Sui in New York in 2008.
Kang Seung-hyun won Ford’s Supermodel of the World title in 2008, a recognition that was never before given to an Asian model.
Although it is glamorous to have a reputation as a runway model, the treatment these models often receive isn’t always so glamorous.
“New models don’t always get paid for walking in a show or sometimes get clothing or shoes instead,” said one model who asked to be not named adding that the model didn’t get paid from three companies in New York and got clothing instead.
“The bigger and more glamorous a company is, the more stingy with its payment to [models],” said another model.
Hence, a rule that is widespread but not much talked about in the industry is that models establish their name by walking big shows and find other ways to make money. Many shoot commercials with fashion brands to make money. Popular models set this kind of schedule as soon as they are done with the fashion week events that take place in major fashion cities each year.
Kim Sung-hee shot a commercial with Prada and Choi So-ra was chosen as a 2016 Spring/Summer model for Coach. Park Ji-hye appeared in advertisements for Calvin Klein, Uniqlo as well as others.
Other hardships these models have to endure include endless auditions and long waits. Even top models who have been in Chanel’s shows multiple times are required to face another round of casting auditions each time. About 10 days before the show begins, the audition process starts.
Even if models get the job after this, more waiting awaits them. Shin once had a nerve-wrecking moment when she had to wait all day for a fitting session for the outfit she was supposed to wear to a show for the 2016 Spring/Summer collection. She waited 12 hours only to hear that she had to come back at 11 a.m. the next day. Her turn to do a fitting came only 30 minutes before the show, and she had to run to the venue for the fashion show. While running, another colleague of hers heard that a gig was canceled. Park Ji-hye also said that even after models are cast through an audition and complete rehearsals, they often still don’t get to be on stage.
BY PARK HYUN-YOUNG [summerlee@joongang.co.kr]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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