Craving cold noodles this summer? Here are five spots to check out in Seoul.

Food & Travel

Craving cold noodles this summer? Here are five spots to check out in Seoul.

Published: 21 Aug. 2024, 07:00 Updated: 21 Aug. 2024, 10:19

LEE JIAN
lee.jian@joongang.co.kr

Makguksu at Seongcheon Makguksu in Gangnam District, southern Seoul [LEE JIAN]

It seems that an over 30-degree heat cannot deter thousands of foodies from queueing up each day, sometimes for hours, to get their hands on a humble bowl of cold noodles.

Drawing some of the largest crowds in town every summer are a handful of eateries whose decadeslong dedication to the artisanal craft of making noodles is unmatched by any other. These family-operated establishments have stood the test of time and today, they are considered the best of not only their kind, but also leaders in the wider world of Korean cuisine.

As the hot streak continues through August, here are five storied cold noodle eateries around Seoul to help you pull through the rest of the season.

A quick tip for potential diners: These places don’t take reservations, though tables do turn over pretty quickly. But even so, the wait during peak times can go for several hours. To save time, aim to arrive between meal times and avoid weekends. Also, tables for one usually open quicker than for larger groups.

Kongguksu (noodles in cold soybean soup)

Kongguksu, otherwise known as cold soybean soup noodles, at Jinju Hoegwan in Jung District, central Seoul [JOONGANG ILBO]

Silky bean soup and noodles complete the kongguksu at Jinju Hoegwan, a 62-year-old Korean barbecue house near City Hall Station in Jung District, central Seoul. Initially established in Jinju, South Gyeongsang, the restaurant relocated to Seoul in 1965 with owner Cho Weol-rae.

It has since become a favorite kongguksu eatery for many locals, including Samsung chaebols Lee Jae-yong and his late father Lee Kun-hee, former president Lee Myung-bak, mayor Oh Se-hoon and former Seoul Mayor Park Won-soon. Their handwritten signatures proudly hang on the restaurant's antique wooden walls.

Brought out almost immediately upon order, this kongguksu is an exercise in the art of simplicity. A spool of starchy noodles, measuring around 1 millimeter (0.4 inches) in diameter — similar to your common spaghetti — is almost completely submerged inside a cold pool of locally sourced, blended soybeans that fill the bowl to the brim. The straightforward soybean-water concoction leaves out all the common toppings for the dish, like julienned cucumbers, tomatoes and sesame seeds.

The result is a powerfully nutty dish with a thick, almost paste-like consistency for the soup. It is balanced with the restaurant's housemade kimchi banchan (side), which has a fair amount of kick.

Cho Weol-rae’s eldest son, Cho Geol, and his grandson currently run the restaurant.

Price: 16,000 won ($12)
Hours: Jinju Hoegwan opens Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. On Saturdays, it closes one hour earlier and has a break from 2 p.m. to 3 p.m.

Kongguksu at Jinju House in Yeongdeungpo District, western Seoul [LEE JIAN]

Cho Weol-rae’s younger son, Cho Hyun-gyu, subsequently opened Jinju House on the basement floor of Yeouido Department Store, now a bygone mall, in Yeongdeungpo District, western Seoul, in 1974.

At a glance, it looks very similar to the original; but a closer examination reveals tweaks from its forerunner, seemingly to better appeal to a wider and more modern palate.

Most notable is the consistency of the blended soybeans, which has been moderated so as not to be so overwhelmingly heavy — as some have claimed. The servers also cut the noodles in half at the table. At Jinju Hoegwan, diners have to ask for scissors.

Jinju House serves a sweeter variety of kimchi with radish and carrots, called bossam kimchi. It isn’t heavily fermented and maintains a satisfying crunch of the lettuce.

Price: 15,000 won
Hours: Jinju House opens Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. On Saturday, it closes one hour earlier. There are no break times.

Pyongyang naengmyeon (North Korean-style cold buckwheat noodles with beef and pork broth)

In the world of gourmet Pyongyang naengmyeon, there are two major branches: the Uijeongbu-style and the Jangchung-dong-style.

The Uijeongbu-style Pyongyang naengmyeon originated in South Korea in 1969 through owner Kim Kyeong-pil who fled from North Korea’s Pyongyang during the Korean War (1950-53) and opened a naengmyeon eatery in Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi.

Pyongyang naengmyeon, otherwise known as North Korean-styled cold buckwheat noodles at Eulji Myeonok in Jongno District, central Seoul [LEE JIAN]

Her dish uses pork and beef broth and tends to be saltier than its counterparts. It also sports a dash of fine gochugaru (red chili pepper powder) sprinkled on top, giving the dish its signature pop of color.

Kim’s restaurant, Pyongyang Myeonok, is now being run by her eldest son in Uijeongbu. Her three daughters have each opened eateries in Seoul: Pildong Myeonok, Eulji Myeonok and Pyongyang Myeonok’s Gangnam branch. They all use the same recipe but the dishes still slightly vary in taste.

Eulji Myeonok in Jongno District, central Seoul, recently received the most attention for reopening this April, after it was forced to shutter its original location a few blocks north due to the government’s urban development project in 2022.

Its new location in the Nakwon-dong neighborhood, a five-story building with a private front lot, is much larger and more modern than its previous hole-in-the-wall spot, which resided up a narrow alleyway.

Upon being seated, diners are served a hot glass of buckwheat water, which, similar to pasta water, is the liquid left over after cooking the buckwheat noodles. Thought to prevent stomach aches after consuming cold food, this water is often given out at eateries that use buckwheat. It tastes like starchy water with earthy undertones.

The noodles are served almost immediately after the hot liquid, arriving in a thin stainless metal bowl where the neatly rolled noodles and the toppings - boiled egg, two pork slices and one beef slice - stand like a mountain surrounded by clear, water-like broth. The best way to enjoy it is to drink the broth without toppling the mountain of noodles, so as to get the untainted flavor of the soup. Eulji Myeonok has a savory broth whose meaty heaviness is balanced with the slight kick from the finely ground chili flakes and chopped chilis, as well as the crispness of the leeks.

First-time diners may wonder about the rather lukewarm temperature of the broth. But it is customary for Pyongyang naengmyeon to be served at around 20 degrees Celsius, which is cool but not cold.

It is served with a side of pickled radish — also customary banchan in Pyongyang naengmyeon eateries, in lieu of kimchi.

Price: 15,000 won
Hours: It opens Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Break time is from 3 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.

The Jangchung-dong style of naengmyeon was founded by the Kim Myeon-seop and Byeon Jeong-sook couple in 1985. Arriving as North Korean refugees, they founded Pyongyang Myeonok in 1985, and it is currently located at the Jangchung-dong neighborhood in Jung District, central Seoul.

Pyongyang naengmyeon at Pyongyang Myeonok in Jung District, central Seoul [LEE JIAN]

It has branches in Seongnam, Gyeonggi, and Gangnam District, southern Seoul, with the same name, run by the couple’s children and grandchildren.

The main Jangchung-dong store is currently operated by their first son, Kim Dae-seong. It has a less prominent flavor, especially when compared to the Uijeongbu style of the dish. Some may say it is bland, but others prefer it because it allows the dish’s meaty aroma to better come through. There is vinegar, gyeoja (mustard) and gochugaru on every table for diners to add depending on taste. It is topped with pickled radish ribbons, pickled cucumber circles, half a boiled egg chopped scallions, two pork slices and one beef slice.

The naengmyeon is served with sides of pickled radish, the same type inside the bowl, and housemade kimchi that isn’t very spicy in both appearance and taste. Both are effective at not overwhelming the understated flavor of the main dish.

Price: 15,000 won
Hours: Opens every day from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. with no breaks.

Makguksu (Cold buckwheat noodles with vegetable broth)

Makguksu is often served as a side to bossam (boiled then sliced pork squares) or jokbal (pig trotters cooked in soy sauce and spices), but it is the star at Seongcheon Makguksu in Dongdaemun District, eastern Seoul. Founded by North Korean refugees in 1966, the restaurant is now run by the owners' son Cho Yeong-hwan and his wife Kim Kyeong-soon. The original owners' first-born son, Cho Soo-ryang, opened the eatery’s second branch in Seocho District, southern Seoul, in 2001.

Makguksu at Seongcheon Makguksu in Dongdaemun District, eastern Seoul [LEE JIAN]

Makguksu shares similar characteristics with Pyongyang naengmyeon, but while Pyongyang naengmyeon’s charm lies in its subtlety of flavors and texture, there is much more going on inside a bowl of makguksu.

At Seongcheon, the mul (water) makguksu noodles feel almost elastic. They are tougher and require chewing due to the higher starch content. The noodles are also indented with the inner peels of buckwheat, meaning the kernels have not been milled very thoroughly. It gives the noodles a pleasant, earthy flavor and aroma. The noodles are pulled and cooked upon order in the kitchen, so it takes a little longer — around 15 minutes — for the makguksu to arrive on diners’ tables.

The broth is also vegan. Called dongchimi, it is the cold water that is poured over white radish kimchi, with which it is fermented for around two weeks. It has a slight tang from the fermentation and is often mildly sweet and sour. But the housemade dongchimi broth poured over Seongcheon’s noodles is blander — almost like water with an acetic aftertaste. The flavor isn’t necessarily something that most will automatically consider as being “good,” but that oddness is what many point to as being so unique and, even, addictive. The light flavor also feels fresh on the palate and the ice shavings on top maintain the cool temperature of the noodles.

The eatery stands by its decades-old recipe with a bold print written in red on the wall that reads: “Sweet X, Saecom [pleasant, or just a slight sour flavor, often used to describe sweet and sour candies] X.” But for those who insist on more familiar flavors, there is vinegar and yeongyeoja (liquid-infused mustard) on the table to add to the taste.

Seongcheon’s bibim, or mixed, noodles without broth, is a stark contrast to the mul makguksu. A thick globular scoop of bright red sauce is plopped on top of a neatly weaved ball of noodles. It all sits under a puddle of sesame oil. The sauce, which uses locally sourced gochugaru, is quite spicy, and almost bitter by itself. It is balanced out as it is mixed with the warm and nutty flavor of the oil and the noodles. Diners can choose the spice level — from one to three — but even the lowest is enough to get a tingling sensation around your lips.

The noodles are served with jjanji, which are pickled radish ribbons in a simple salt brine.

It is also worth noting that Seongcheon is particularly accommodating to solo diners, offering a one-person set menu at 11,000 won that consists of a bowl of noodles and 40 grams of boiled pork slices. This works up to be around just four to five small pieces of pork, which look more meager than they actually sit in the stomach.

Price: 8,000 won
Hours: It opens Monday through Saturday from 11:30 to 9 p.m. Break time is from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. every day except Saturday where it runs throughout.

BY LEE JIAN [lee.jian@joongang.co.kr]