A nature escape, inside bustling Seoul
Published: 30 Jul. 2009, 00:10
Mount Baekak forest path By Jeong Chi-ho
For a long time, people paid little attention to this secret garden. But mountain climbers began to explore it in March 2005, when the area containing the ruins of a villa belonging to Lee Hang-bok ? a renowned prime minister under King Seonjo, the 14th king of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) ? was designated as the nation’s 462nd historical site. Lee, whose pseudonym was Baeksa, even gives the valley its name, Baeksasil.
In January 2008, the valley was selected by the central government as one of Korea’s most beautiful areas, offering city dwellers plenty of hiking opportunities and a tranquil respite within easy reach.
Unlike the valley it overlooks, Mount Baekak, also called Mount Bukak, has been recognized as an anchor of Seoul for more than 600 years, ever since the founder of the Joseon Dynasty selected the city as his capital. Baekak means “white rock,” after the glittering granite that tops the peak. The mountain, along with Mount Inwang, is rich with Joseon history.
More famous than the valley itself is Segeomjeong, or the pavilion of washing swords. Legend has it that warriors aligned with the 16th king of Joseon, who reigned from 1623 to 1649, cleaned their weapons here after eliminating rival claimants to the throne.
Climbing from Segeomjeong in Buam-dong north of Mount Baekak, you’ll pass the ruins of Baeksa’s villa, which sat near a pond with spectacular mountains and valleys spread out before it. It’s simply stunning to contemplate how this scenic landscape remained so unspoiled even with 10 million people living in its backyard. The cornerstones and foundations of ancient houses sit under grand old trees, undisturbed for centuries.
Climb down from the peak and you’ll come across a huge rock surrounded by a grove at the upper mouth of the valley. On the rock the four characters for Baekseok Dongcheon are engraved. Baekseok means Baekak (white rock), and Dongcheon refers to the landscape of mountains and valleys. Together the characters evoke a beautiful and mysterious utopia and serve as a welcoming sign to the area.
The hike from Sajik Park through the Hwanghakjeong archery field to Jahamun ? the small northern gate to Seoul’s ancient fortress wall ? and then onto Baekseok Dongcheon reminds one of the legendary path that Prince Anpyeong dreamed of long ago.
Top: A royal shrine of Joseon Dynasty kings in Sajik Park. Above: Gilsang Temple on the Mount Baekak forest path.
On April 20, 1447, Prince Anpyeong dreamed that he walked through a beautiful, mysterious village of peach blossoms where mythical hermits made their homes. He called upon the renowned artist Angyeon and explained the dream to him. In three days, Angyeon completed a painting called Mongyudowondo.
Hiking from Mount Inwang to Mount Baekak
The forest path from Sajik Park in Jongno to the Seongbuk District Community Center via Palgakjeong and the Jahamun gate offers excellent views of Mount Bukhan.
This beautiful path overlooks the spectacular Seoul skyline and the mountain itself, which surrounds the northern part of the city like a folding screen.
Mount Inwang forest path
Inside the park sits memorial tablets for the Joseon kings. An altar in the corner near the main gate honors the gods of soil and grain.
The hiking path begins just past Hwanghakjeong, a pavilion that was once a shrine to Dangun, the mythical founder of Korea, and the national archery field. Most of the Mount Inwang forest path is now the Inwang skyway, a paved road along the mountain. The most beautiful part of the walk is the view from Mount Baekak at the mouth of Cheongun Park.
Mount Baekak forest path
A paved road travels along a ridge from the Jahamun gate to the Mount Baekak trail. Along the way, consider a stop at the Whanki Museum.
Baeksasil Valley can also be reached from here, via a 400-meter path past Eungseon Temple. Sanmotoonge Cafe offers views of both Mount Inwang and Mount Baekak, while the ridges of Mount Samgak stretch from Hyangno Peak to Bibong and Bohyeonbong.
The fortress wall that stretches up a ridge to the top of Mount Baekak can be seen clearly from the trailhead, while the west portion of the Baekak forest path, parallel to the Bukak highway, offers views of Mount Inwang.
The lovely southern ridges of Mount Samgak to the north are another highlight. A path branches off down to Baeksasil Valley just before Palgak Pavilion, beyond which a side road leads to Jeongneung, Sukjeongmun Gate and Seongbuk-dong. Take this road 200 meters (656 feet) to reach Gilsang Temple. Palgak Pavilion is an excellent place to stop and rest.
By Kim Woo-seon Contributing writer [estyle@joongang.co.kr]
How to get there: Sajik Park is located 3 to 4 minutes from exit 1 of Gyeongbokgung Station on subway line No. 3.
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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