Pioneer patissier brings his pastries to Korea
Among baked items from Mont St, Claire, above, by pastry chef Hironobu Tsujiguchi, the white chocolate “C’est La Vie” cake, center, which was first introduced in 1996, is the most popular. Provided by Moverman Korea
But the smell wasn’t emanating from the kitchen. It was coming from a room where Japanese patisserie mogul Hironobu Tsujiguchi was lecturing aspiring chefs.
The pastry chef was painting on a black board while giving career advice to his audience. He used a creamy paste of whipped eggs and sugar to draw a dragon. He then used a blow torch to add a smoky flavor and a bronze hue.
Tsujiguchi’s performance was a celebration of the inaugural Korean branch of his pastry store Mont St. Clair - one of 12 patisserie brands he runs in Japan, and his first shop outside of the country.
The chef often combines baked goods with art.
“It is just a small portion of fresh cream, but it can have more visually stimulating effect when shown in [this form],” he told the Korea JoongAng Daily last week.
Tsujiguchi has been in the public eye since he gained fame with his white chocolate “C’est La Vie” cake in 1996.
And he is set to up his profile even further with the 156-episode drama “Mare” based on his life history from next March on Japanese TV channel NHK.
Q. Why do you think food products that are popular in Japan are also popular with Koreans?
A. I think Japanese and Korean have a similar sentiment when it comes to taste. When we try to present Japanese products, the taste works well to satiate the Korean appetite. Since we have a similar face shape, the same skin color and the same body structure, we feel something similar from the same products.
Japanese pastry chef Hironobu Tsujiguchi poses next to a dragon he painted with a creamy meringue paste. Provided by the store
So far, many of the chefs studied in France and then came back to Japan to open a dessert shop. As a result, I think people don’t think that much about opening a store outside [of the country] because they want to make it work in Japan. Also, maybe it’s because the domestic demand for desserts is big enough that they think less about expanding their business as they can still make enough of a living from working within the country.
Will you open stores in other nations besides Korea?
If I can find someone who shares my perspective on making desserts and if can keep the quality and baking technique. But I don’t want to expand just to see some profit while sacrificing the overall quality of the product.
You now have 12 different brands in Japan. Why did you continue creating new brands and opening new shops instead of simply adding new products to your existing stores?
I wanted to make a roll cake, but I couldn’t present it at my Mont St. Claire store. That is because I wanted to inherit the spirit of French desserts at the store, but a roll cake isn’t French. So I just decided to open a new shop where fresh roll cakes are baked everyday and are cut for customers when they purchase them.
Later on, I wanted to open a chocolate shop, and I needed a kitchen that specialized in making chocolate, which does not use flour. The more ideas I had, the more I just couldn’t help opening new stores.
Have you had another new idea recently?
I don’t have any right now. But I would be willing to consider another challenge if there was something that seemed to fit the taste of the current generation well.
Why do you think your businesses have been doing well and gathered so much attention shortly after opening?
I’ve introduced things that did not exist in Japan. For instance, when Roppongi Hills was being developed years ago, I thought many adults would go here to hang out, so I decided to open a chocolate shop - not to suit the tastes of children, but for adults.
One part of the floor is covered in chocolate, and alcoholic beverages combined with chocolate are offered so that adults can enjoy chocolate in a more mature manner. I tried to create a chocolate culture to suit the taste of adults instead of snacks for children.
A view of Tsujiguchi’s new Mont St. Claire store at the Banyan Tree Club and Spa in central Seoul. Provided by the store
I think eating food is not just about satiating your appetite; the action also includes some cultural elements. Food embraces the idea that the original producer had, and that original idea is transformed into many different yet creative ways, depending on who eats it.
So, to make as many people taste the food, I think media is one of the most effective ways to expose people to the idea of eating. Then they can actually go and look for their own eating experiences.
What do you suggest if people want to eat desserts but don’t want to put on a little extra weight?
I have introduced a chocolate type in Japan that does not raise the blood sugar level in your body. It has not yet been introduced in Korea, but hopefully I can bring it here in time for Valentine’s Day next year.
When did you first develop your ties to Korea’s dessert industry?
I came to Korea for the first time in 2002 when the World Cup was on. I shared my thought and ideas when CJ was gearing up to open its dessert shop A Twosome Place.
What plans do you have in Korea for the future?
I’m currently providing sweets that are made in the Japanese style, but I want to know more about the ingredients found in Korea, such as different types of fruits you rarely find in Japan, and use them to make desserts.
BY LEE SUN-MIN [summerlee@joongang.co.kr]
with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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