Young Koreans develop a taste for whiskey as wine sales sour

Industry

Published: 07 Dec. 2023, 18:18 Updated: 07 Dec. 2023, 19:52

Young Koreans develop a taste for whiskey as wine sales sour

Actors, dressed in traditional western attire, greet passers-by at the Cutty Sark pop-up store in Garosu-gil in Gangnam District, southern Seoul, on Dec. 2. [SEO JI-EUN]

In the tranquil ambience that has now settled over Garosu-gil in southern Seoul, actors donning sophisticated 1920s attire engage pedestrians with an intriguing proposition: "Care to experience authentic whiskey?"

The odd scene unfolding on the street in the heart of Gangnam brings to life the allure of Cutty Sark Whisky, made famous after the U.S. Prohibition era by Captain William McCoy, transporting passers-by to the legendary captain's cruise party.

Korea's love for whiskey, which boomed particularly among young people in their 20s and 30s during the Covid-19 pandemic, has eclipsed that of wine. This surge has prompted not only major players in the liquor industry but also restaurants to open pop-up stores or introduce new whiskey-centric products, including a whiskey hamburger — offering diverse ways for Koreans to savor the Western liquor.

Hitejinro, Korea's largest liquor firm, recently inked a distribution agreement with the Cutty Sark brand, marking the occasion with a pop-up store on the iconic Garosu-gil in Gangnam since Nov. 25.

Originally slated for a nine-day run, the pop-up store's success has led to an extension until next Monday.

"Whiskey, once considered exclusive to middle-aged men in room salons, is now enjoying unparalleled popularity among people in their 20s and 30s," Young Jae-won, assistant manager at Hitejinro's whiskey division, told us. "While whiskey's share within Hitejinro's overall beverage business is still in single digits compared to soju and beer, we are expanding our whiskey portfolio in response to the growing popularity of whiskey in Korea."

Visitors at the Cutty Sark pop-up store receive hints from an actor, and those successfully completing the quiz get the opportunity to sample Cutty Sark shots or highballs. [SEO JI-EUN]

Similar to Korea's beloved 'escape room' experiences, the immersive Cutty Sark pop-up invites customers on a quest to find Captain McCoy through quizzes, providing insights into the brand's history and characteristics. Correct answers are rewarded with complimentary servings of Cutty Sark Whisky. The bustling pop-up on Dec. 2, when the reporter visited, reflected the whiskey culture's rising popularity among those in their 20s and 30s.

Recent trade statistics from the Korea Customs Service showed whiskey imports increased by 26.8 percent to 26,937 tons from January to October this year compared to the same period in the previous year. The surge is poised to rival the historical peak in 2002.

Customers browse whiskey products at a supermarket in downtown Seoul. [YONHAP]

The once-dominant trend of wine, however, has waned. Wine imports for the same period decreased by 18.8 percent to 47,500 tons, with a corresponding 11.6 percent drop in import value to $427.8 million. Even convenience store chain Emart24 reported a shift in sales proportions, with whiskey outselling wine from August to November, recording a 53:47 ratio — compared to a 25:75 ratio in 2021.

“Whiskey has become a hip drink among the younger generation, driving the beverage trend,” stated an Emart24 spokesperson.

Whiskey's growing popularity is not limited to the liquor industry.

Culinary collaborations are flourishing, with establishments like the Korean coffee shop chain A Twosome Place introducing a limited-edition holiday menu featuring whiskey-infused cakes, pastries, and beverages. Shake Shack joins the trend with a new menu, Bourbon Bacon, developed in collaboration with Maker's Mark, incorporating bourbon into its bacon onion sauce.

BY SEO JI-EUN [seo.jieun1@joongang.co.kr]