[WEEKEND GETAWAY] Mukho blends seafood, scenery and slow-paced charm

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[WEEKEND GETAWAY] Mukho blends seafood, scenery and slow-paced charm

A panoramic view of colorful houses and buildings with murals is a highlight of Nongoldam-gil in Mukho, Donghae in Gangwon. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

A panoramic view of colorful houses and buildings with murals is a highlight of Nongoldam-gil in Mukho, Donghae in Gangwon. [BAEK JONG-HYUN]

Mukho, the name of a port town in Korea, usually fails to ring a bell for many Koreans.  
 
Donghae in Gangwon, an already popular spot in the tour list for both locals and tourists, is home to this small, friendly town. Facing the East Sea, the town offers vibrant sights for those who gather at the port to appreciate the scenic views. It also embraces both old and young scenes, since the government began renovating projects for Mukho starting in 2016. The initiative of switching outdated places into vintage-looking cultural attractions and drawing young tourists to the area has been deemed pretty successful in recent years.  
 
Hop onto a tour to Mukho, which is a two-hour and thirty-minute ride away by train from Seoul. You can leave your car behind and get into full walking mode thanks to its petite size.  
 
 
Nongoldam-gil
논골담길
One of Nongoldam-gil's attractions are murals painted on walls of old buildings. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

One of Nongoldam-gil's attractions are murals painted on walls of old buildings. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

 
 
Nongoldam-gil at Mukho Starlight Village is a must-try route for firstcomers to Mukho. Walking across a steep hill that leads to Mukho Lighthouse at 67 meters (220 feet) above sea level becomes a rewarding journey when exposed to a full view of houses and buildings packed tightly as well as some mural art painted on the walls. Sashaying through the curvy and narrow streets adds a fun touch to the climb.  
 
 
Once you reach the top of the hill, the lighthouse greets those who have endured the ascend. Around six to seven minutes away by foot, Dojjaebigol Haerang Observatory and Dojjaebigol Sky Valley are additional attractions for sightseeing and excitement. If you are a fan of physical activities, Sky Cycle and Giant Slide may be intriguing options to try. During the winter, most visitors come for the view instead of physical exertion, refraining from getting fully blasted with the icy wind.  
 
If you want to appreciate the view from indoors, concern-free from the cold breeze, try Nongol Cafe, located near Nongoldam-gil. The large windows reveal a full panorama of the sea.  
 
 
 
2 Nongol 1-gil, Donghae, Gangwon
(강원도 동해시 논골1길 2)
 
 
 
 
Mukho Port Seafood Market  
묵호어판장 수산시장  
Seafood is a specialty to try out when visiting Mukho in Donghae, Gangwon. A vendor holds up snow crabs at a market stall near Mukho Port. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

Seafood is a specialty to try out when visiting Mukho in Donghae, Gangwon. A vendor holds up snow crabs at a market stall near Mukho Port. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

 
 
Trying out the local specialty is a highlight of the trip. In Mukho, seafood is fresh and affordable as the ingredients are mostly served straight from the adjacent East Sea.      
 
Less than 10 minutes from Mukho Station by foot, a large wholesale market around Mukho Port welcomes visitors with local specialties and freshly caught fish. Seafood, both raw or cooked in soup, is offered at a fraction of the price found in the greater Seoul areas.  
 
 
Haemuljjim, a spicy dish with braised seafood served at Dongbaek Sikdang in Mukho, Donghae in Gangwon. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

Haemuljjim, a spicy dish with braised seafood served at Dongbaek Sikdang in Mukho, Donghae in Gangwon. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

If you happen to prefer already cooked dishes served at restaurants instead of walking and searching for seafood by yourself, you can always head out to the streets facing the seaside, where you can find numerous local restaurants serving seasonal dishes with seafood. Dongbaek Sikdang, located less than five minutes away from the seafood market, serves haemuljjim, a spicy dish with braised seafood. Snow crabs, octopus, scallops and whelks are served next to spicy vegetables. Walk ten minutes to the west and you will find the East Sea Central Market, where you will spot more local specialties and street food.

 
 
Ilchul-ro, Donghae, Gangwon
(강원 동해시 일출로) 
 

 
The Museum of Pencil
연필뮤지엄
The Museum of Pencil showcases more than 3,000 types of pencils. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

The Museum of Pencil showcases more than 3,000 types of pencils. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

 
 
Some people prioritize the art of walking around and appreciating the aesthetics of cultural spaces. If you are one of those who create a list of the main spots to check out for inspiration and visual stimulus, the Museum of Pencil cannot be missed in Mukho. In operation since 2021, it is the first museum to open in Donghae. The museum keeps a collection of 3,000 types of pencils. It displays stationery sets that once belonged to renowned authors and influential artists, including pencils cherished by literary critic Lee Ur-ryung and novelist Kim Hoon. There is a cafe on the fourth floor if you want to take in a view of the East Sea.  
 
Independent shops run by artists who express their taste through curated objects are a cherry on top of the artistic tour. If you are a fan of small select shops, then Zanzan Bookshop, Miohan Donghae and Kkiruk Shop should be right up your alley.  
 
 
240-20, Balhan-dong, Donghae, Gangwon
(강원도 동해시 발한동 240-20)
Operation hours: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m., Wednesday to Monday (Closed every Tuesday,  Lunar New Year’s Day, Chuseok and first Wednesday of January each year)
Admission fee: 7,000 won ($5.3) for adults (from middle school students and above), 4,500 for Donghae residents and children up to students at elementary school) 
Phone number: 033-532-1010
Website: https://www.pencilmuseum.co.kr/




 
Karamel Station
카라멜 스테이션  
 
 
Karamel Station is a renovated hotel that also functions as a cafe in Mukho, Donghae in Gangwon. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

Karamel Station is a renovated hotel that also functions as a cafe in Mukho, Donghae in Gangwon. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

Karamel Station, or Hotel Karamel, operates a cafe on the first floor while the upper floors offer accommodation to those seeking overnight stays. Originally an old motel, it transformed into a miniature complex that offers coffee and an aesthetically pleasing stay.  
 
Located between Mukho Station and Mukho Port, Karamel Station streamlines the area as the only replenished building amid the surrounding old installments. The space is getting exposure and recognition among young Koreans through social media feeds that curate slow-paced, aesthetic spots of Korea.  
 
Karamel Station's silver, metal-like entrance is a photogenic spot for visitors. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

Karamel Station's silver, metal-like entrance is a photogenic spot for visitors. [CHOI SEUNG-PYO]

 
The most photogenic area is the silver-metal entrance with the white sign adding a modern touch. The building went through a thorough renovation but kept the retro-style layout of the lobby and left out the construction of elevators. Those who are willing to stay a night at Hotel Karamel to appreciate personally curated interiors, make sure to pack light to survive the climb to the room. 
 
Aside from the accommodation, the venue is still worth a visit as the cafe on the first floor turns on slow chill music for visitors to relax, set with caramel-infused signature drinks.
 
 
@karamel.station_cafe
 
219-11 Balhan-ro, Donghae, Gangwon
(강원도 동해시 발한로 219-11)
Operation hours: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Phone number: 0507-1334-9718

BY KIM DONG-EUN [kim.dongeun@joongang.co.kr]
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