New 'mix coffee' cafe serves up Korean classic with modern twist

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New 'mix coffee' cafe serves up Korean classic with modern twist

Published: 20 Apr. 2024, 07:00 Updated: 10 Jun. 2024, 17:40

SEO JI-EUN
seo.jieun1@joongang.co.kr

newmix coffee, a cafe specializing in mixed coffee, located in Seongsu-dong, eastern Seoul, boasts a media wall that resembles a galaxy, illuminating the floor and cashier area. [SEO JI-EUN]

Korea's latest coffee trend has been shaped around western-style espresso machines and select coffee beans from diverse origins, eclipsing the standing of the once-beloved "mix coffee" — a powdery mixture of coffee, creamer and sugar.

However, the tech guru that founded Baedal Minjok, Korea's largest food delivery app, spotted untapped market potential in mix coffee and has opened a store devoted to the product.

The cafe, named "newmix coffee", is nestled in Seongsu-dong, a trendy Seoul district populated by youth, alongside myriad stylish pop-up stores that come and go.

In contrast to its somewhat antiquated image as an integral part of daily Korean life for nearly 50 years — since the invention of the world's first mix coffee in 1976 — newmix coffee has a modern and sleek first impression.

The monochrome palette and a space-age feel from a holographic media wall resembling cosmic galaxies accentuated by fast-paced EDM music sets a futuristic tone akin to a tech shop or a clothing showroom rather than a typical coffee shop.

At newmix coffee, the coffee is prepared behind the wall and served. Since it specializes in mixed coffee, there are no coffee machines. [SEO JI-EUN]

The takeout establishment, just about 10 square meters (107 square feet), features a single employee in a black suit taking orders and serving customers, while behind a wall decorated with mix coffee cups, other staff prepare orders and pass them to the cashier.

newmix coffee says it doesn't just serve plain mixed coffee; they enhance it with steamed milk or whipped cream for a cafe-style touch.

newmix coffee offers the classic beverage with a twist, along with snacks. During a visit to the coffee shop on March 19, the reporter ordered a roasted chestnuts mixed coffee (3,500 won) and a donut-shaped Oranda (3,500 won). [SEO JI-EUN]

In addition to the original mixed coffee (2,500 won, $1.80), they also infuse traditional Korean flavors, such as roasted rice (3,500 won), roasted chestnuts (3,500 won) and green tea (3,500 won). The cafe plans to develop flavors like patbingsu (shaved ice with red beans) and bunggeo-ppang (fish-shaped pastry filled with red bean paste) in the future. The beverages can be enjoyed paired with retro snacks like geonbang (hardtack), oranda (traditional puffed wheat mixed with honey or syrup), and tteok (rice cake) waffles.

"I find the coffee tastes good because it doesn't have the stuffy taste of regular mixed coffee, and it's sweet and creamy," said a 27-year-old customer surnamed Lee.

Some are skeptical about selling cheap instant coffee considering its retail price of around 200 won per packet in supermarkets and the minimal effort required to serve it.

"In Europe, we have this culture of freshly brewed coffee, like 100 percent Arabica, so it's difficult to persuade someone to visit [a coffee shop that serves instant coffee]," said Kamila, a 25-year-old tourist from France. "Still, customers can come [to newmix coffee] out of curiosity."

newmix coffee, is spearheaded by grandeclip — a startup founded by Kim Bong-jin, the mastermind behind Korea's biggest food delivery app, Baedal Minjok, better known as Baemin.

After leaving Woowa Brothers, the parent company of Baemin, Kim recognized the growth potential of mixed coffee as the "most Korean-style coffee" considering its widespread appeal among Koreans.

"All Koreans know the taste of mixed coffee — it usually comes after strenuous work or intense concentration to recharge the sugar rush," said Forest Kim, creative director at grandeclip overseeing the newmix coffee project. "It is a true foundation of Koreans' superpower."

newmix coffee's instant coffee packets and cups [NEWMIX COFFEE]

While traditional Korean beverages like sikhye (sweet rice drink) and misutgaru (mixed grain powder) may come to mind, coffee reigns supreme in Korea's beverage landscape. Korea ranks second globally in coffee consumption, with Maxim Mocha Gold instant coffee sales alone reaching 6.1 billion cups annually as of 2021.

newmix coffee's focus on "Koreanness" is aligned with its ambition to go global. Like Italy's espresso and Vietnam's weasel coffee, it believes mixed coffee can be Korea's iconic coffee.

In fact, Dong Suh Foods controls nearly 90 percent of the domestic mixed coffee market with brands like Maxim and Kanu. Despite its dominance, it is restricted from exporting coffee mixes due to a joint venture with U.S. snack food company Mondelez International. This presents an opportunity for newmix coffee to fill the gap.

With plans for domestic expansion to as many as four stores, newmix coffee also plans to go global, including potential entries in Singapore and New York, a melting pot perfect for gathering a range of opinions from people from around the world.

As for making the perfect mixed coffee, Kim advises foreigners to adjust the water volume properly.

"I've noticed that foreigners often find it challenging to get the water ratio right, especially as they're used to large-sized mugs," Kim said. "The secret to making delicious mixed coffee is one thing: pour in about half the water volume of a small cup, such as the six-dose cup common among Koreans. This delivers a taste more akin to Korean-style sweet espresso."

BY SEO JI-EUN [seo.jieun1@joongang.co.kr]