Diving into the rich cultural world of Jeju’s haenyeo

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Diving into the rich cultural world of Jeju’s haenyeo

Published: 11 Nov. 2024, 09:37 Updated: 11 Nov. 2024, 14:44

The story of Jeju’s women, who braved the harsh forces of nature for the sake of their families, is celebrated not just in Korea but across the globe. With only the simplest tools, the sustainable fishery of Jeju’s haenyeo exemplifies values that our society should prioritize: respect for minorities, selflessness for the greater good and a symbiotic relationship with nature. These principles are deeply ingrained in the culture of Jeju’s haenyeo, or female sea divers, whose stories continue to inspire.

Haenyeo, or "woman of the sea," dive into the ocean to gather marine life such as conches, abalone, sea urchins and seaweed. This unique practice is found only in Korea and Japan, but it is Korea’s haenyeo who are synonymous with Jeju. By the late 19th century, haenyeo had spread from Jeju to other coastal areas such as Busan, Ulsan, Geoje Island and Tongyoung. Some even ventured into foreign waters in Japan, Russia and China. Today, haenyeo culture is recognized both nationally and internationally.

In 2015, haenyeo culture was designated Korea’s first Nationally Important Fishery Heritage, followed by recognition as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2017. On the global stage, it was declared a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2016, and in 2023, it became a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System. The legacy of Jeju’s haenyeo continues to be celebrated across the island and beyond.

Inside the Haenyeo Museum

When one thinks of a Jeju haenyeo, images of these resilient women diving into treacherous waters and resurfacing with marine life, supported only by a teuwak — a buoy made from gourds — often come to mind. The Jeju Haenyeo Museum, located in Gujwa-eup, Jeju, offers a deep dive into the lives and culture of these iconic women divers. The museum not only showcases their fishing practices but also explores their shamanic beliefs, seasonal customs and close-knit community.

Inside the museum, visitors will find numerous items donated by haenyeo themselves, offering a glimpse into their world. Among the most notable exhibits are the teuwak mangsari — a buoy and fishing net combination — and the bitchang, a metal tool used for harvesting abalone. These simple but effective tools illustrate the sustainable nature of the haenyeo’s fishing methods.

The garden outside the museum holds historical significance, serving as the site of the 1932 Jeju Haenyeo Anti-Japanese Movement, the largest women’s protest against Japanese imperialism. A memorial stone stands here to honor the spirit of these brave women, encapsulating their fierce determination and unwavering commitment.

The teuwak mangsari ? a buoy and fishing net combination ? displayed at the Jeju haenyeo Museum. [JEJU HAENYEO MUSEUM]

Haenyeo’s Kitchen: A feast from the sea

To experience the spirit of the haenyeo firsthand, look no further than Haenyeo’s Kitchen, where an immersive dining experience brings the essence of their work to life. The Jongdal Branch features a performance about the life of a haenyeo, followed by a Q&A session with the divers, who also prepare a buffet-style meal using seafood they have harvested themselves.

At the Bukchon Branch, the experience is equally unique. Guests dine at bulteok-shaped tables, the traditional resting spots for haenyeo, and enjoy a meal that reflects a day in the life of these women divers. Digital video mapping transforms the dining room into an underwater world, enhancing the experience. Unlike the Jongdal Branch, which can accommodate more guests, the Bukchon location serves a more intimate group of up to 14 guests per course.

The divers of Haenyeo’s Kitchen each have their own unique stories, but all share a history of selflessness and dedication to their families. Through their harvests, diners gain a deeper appreciation for the modesty, generosity and familial love that drive their work.

Haenyeo’s Kitchen’s Jongdal Branch offers a Q&A session with the female divers. [HAENYEO’S KITCHEN]

A symphony of soombi

“Phweeee, phweee.” This high-pitched whistling, known as soombi, resonates across the waves as haenyeo surface for air. The sound of soombi is more than just a signal — it is the echo of a life spent intertwined with the sea. It carries with it the stories of these women, who have spent decades working in harmony with the ocean.

For those who want to witness the haenyeo’s work up close, a visit to Seongsan Ilchulbong is a must. From the mountain's peak, you can observe the Haenyeo Women Diver Show, which takes place daily at 2 p.m. While it’s not a grand performance, this show provides a glimpse into the haenyeo’s life through folk songs sung atop a teu, the traditional fishing raft. The divers then go to work in the coastal waters beneath the cliff, offering visitors an authentic connection to the culture.

The Haenyeo Women Diver Show is a recommended stop for those walking along the Jeju Olle Course 1, which passes both the Seongsan Floodgates and Udo Island. It’s a perfect opportunity to experience the daily lives of the haenyeo in a way that feels personal and raw.

The Haenyeo Stay

While one might think that haenyeo can harvest seafood year-round, the reality is that they can dive for only an average of 70 days a year. This is due in part to the challenges of the coastal ecosystem and unpredictable weather conditions. As the profitability of their occupation diminishes, the number of haenyeo continues to decrease.

In response, the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province and the Jeju Tourism Organization have launched the Haenyeo Stay in Gimnyeong, a unique program offering tourists the chance to experience the daily life of the haenyeo. Available for booking until Oct. 31, the program provides a tour of the haenyeo’s workplace, followed by a hands-on experience where guests can dive into the waters to collect seafood alongside the haenyeo. The program is available in two formats: a full, two-night, three-day stay or a shorter, three- to four-hour experience. It is suitable for families with children aged nine and above.

Participants can explore the underwater world of Jeju through goggles as they collect shellfish and marvel at the marine life, including living coral, blowfish and filefish. This immersive experience guarantees lasting memories for anyone who participates.

The Haenyeo Stay in Gimnyeong gives families an opportunity to dive with Jeju’s haenyeo [GO PRO]

Sewha village, part of the Jeju Tourism Organization’s Kareum Stay project, also offers haenyeo-themed accommodation and activities. Unlike the Gimnyeong program, which focuses on families, the Haenyeo Stay in Sewha is a more sophisticated experience, ideal for adults. Over three nights and four days, participants can engage in more advanced freediving lessons and learn about haenyeo culture in greater depth.

Sewha village is listed among the Best Tourism Villages by the UN Tourism Organization and, in collaboration with the Jeju Tourism Organization, is developing other programs aimed at promoting the region’s haenyeo culture. One such program, Chillin JEJU, was held on Oct. 26. This event combined local haenyeo culture with the natural beauty of the area, offering participants a therapeutic and restorative experience. Guests dined on meals prepared with locally sourced produce, rested in traditional bulteok, and meditated to the sound of the waves, creating a perfect getaway from city life.

Relaxed participants chill to the sound of the ocean [JEJU TOURISM ORGANIZATION]

Through these various haenyeo-themed experiences and attractions, Jeju hopes to share the island’s unique culture with the world. “We hope visitors can meet Jeju’s haenyeo in person, hear their stories, and gain a deeper understanding of their lives,” said an associate from the Jeju Tourism Organization. “We will continue to promote Jeju’s haenyeo to tourists from around the world and develop new projects to support the local fishing community.”
For more details, go to the Jeju Tourism Organization’s homepage at visitjeju.net or check out their Instagram (@visitjeju.en).

BY KIM YEONSOO [kim.yeonsoo1@joongang.co.kr]

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